Author: ArmandaG

Have you ever dreamed of discovering a waterfall so jaw-dropping that a photo of it could be used for a cover of a fairytale book? While Croatia is known as the land of waterfalls, the neighbouring Bosnia and Herzegovina boasts some spectacular natural wonders as well. Today, we’re going to visit one of the most popular waterfalls in the country: Kravice Waterfalls.

It looks like something out of a storybook about elves and nymphs, featuring dreamlike emerald waters and the entrance costs only a fraction of the price you would pay in Krka or Plitvice. No wonder this remarkable location draws thousands of visitors each year.

So join me as we explore the enchanting Kravice Waterfalls and uncover all the magic they have to offer!

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What to expect at Kravice waterfalls:

I love hearing local legends, so before we get into the heart of the experience, there’s a story I found in the depths of the web that explains how Kravice has gotten it’s name.

The Legend of Kravice Waterfalls

Did you know that in Bosnian, “krava” means cow? I didn’t either. But what does a cow have to do with a waterfall? That’s where the story gets interesting. As the legend goes, once upon a time, a curious cow wandered too close to the edge of a nearby hill and tumbled into the river below. But instead of meeting a tragic end, the cow was found alive and unharmed at the base of the waterfall, as if the waters had somehow cradled it to safety. To commemorate this small miracle, the locals named the falls “Kravica,” in honour of the lucky cow.

 A Scenic Walk leading to Kravice, Bosnia and Herzegovina

After a quick stop at the ticket office, we began the short trek down toward the falls. The path meanders through the woods, a mix of dirt, pavement, and stone steps carved right into the hillside. Every step brings you closer to the sound of rushing water, the faint roar growing louder with each turn. 

Soon, we reach a point where Kravice Waterfall comes into view again. Before we get there, though, tiny streams to our right steal our attention, trickling down the rock faces and creating delicate cascades—miniature versions of the grand spectacle ahead.

The water is impossibly clear, revealing every stone and pebble beneath the surface, as if nature is offering a sneak peek, a gentle preview of the awe-inspiring beauty that awaits.

The Otherworldly Beauty of Kravice Waterfalls in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Then, just as the path turns and the trees give way, Kravice reveals itself in all its glory, stopping you in your tracks. The waterfall stretches wide—nearly 120 meters—a vast curtain of water tumbling down 25 meters into a dark emerald pool below.

There’s something undeniably magical about this place. The water cascades over massive rocks, completely draped in lush greenery. The falls split into smaller streams that seem to embrace the rocks, creating a layered, almost otherworldly appearance. It’s easy to imagine fairies or other mythical creatures darting between the towering rocks, playing hide-and-seek.

But on a more scientific note, the Kravice Waterfall is a tuff cascade, meaning it has formed over centuries from the carbonate deposits of the mineral-rich Trebižat River. Quite fascinating when you think about it.

Caught in the Rain at Kravice Falls

Just as we’re about to step closer, a heavy raindrop splashes onto your forehead. Then another, and another. The drizzle quickly transforms into a steady downpour, the sound of rain merging with the roar of the waterfall. We glance around, searching for cover, and spot a few cafés nearby. Grabbing a table under a wide umbrella, we settle in, still enjoying the view of the waterfall. Since you have to order something to sit here, we decide to sample a local delicacy: ćevapi.

The rain brings its own kind of magic, transforming the scene. The once-bright emerald water deepens into a moody, mysterious blue. Hundreds of raindrops dance across the surface of the pool, creating ripples that spread outward, while the waterfall continues to roar as if nothing has changed. Some visitors might feel disappointed that the rain has interrupted their visit, but I believe it only adds to the vibe.

Things to Do at Kravice Waterfalls: Beyond Taking Amazing Pictures

As you glance around, you start to see what else the area has to offer. A small boat dock catches your eye; once the rain clears, the boats will likely resume their trips, bringing tourists within arm’s reach from the waterfall. That could be fun!

Then across the water, an island adorned with little white rocks and lush trees calls out to us. It seems like you could walk very close to the Kravice Waterfall from there, but unfortunately, there doesn’t appear to be a way to access the island. Perhaps swimming could be an option? I’ve come across blogs mentioning canoe rentals, but there doesn’t seem to be any in sight—maybe it’s just not the right season yet. 

Lastly, there’s also a path stretching away from the Kravice waterfalls that we might explore if the rain stops.

To be honest, it looks like there is less to do at Kravice compared to Krka or Plitvice. Here, everything revolves around the main attraction—the fairytale-like waterfall.

The Swim in the Ice-Cold Waters of Kravice We Didn’t Take

Although the beauty of Kravice is undeniable, another major draw is the natural swimming pool formed by the emerald waters below the waterfall.

A few brave souls make their way to the water’s edge, cautiously dipping their toes into the pool. For those who’ve dreamed of swimming beside a waterfall, Kravice offers that rare opportunity. Unlike Croatia’s famous Krka Falls, where swimming is banned near the main waterfall, here you can dive right into the crystal-clear waters. Of course, swimming directly under the waterfall is prohibited due to safety concerns, but you can still enjoy the refreshing waters flowing from it at a safe distance, with the majestic falls as your backdrop.

You watch as a couple of other tourists step into the water, testing its temperature. They gasp in shock—the water is ice cold, fed directly from the river. But that doesn’t deter them; I admire their dedication to their bucket lists and those perfect photos.

Though I’m tempted, the chill of the water keeps me on the sidelines.

Where Does the Trail Lead?

As we noted earlier, there’s a path leading away from Kravice in the opposite direction from the one we came. Where does it take you? Not many people seem to be heading that way, but being the adventurous spirits we are, we decide to check it out.

The trail winds through fields and forests, eventually leading under the trees alongside the river with its unbelievably blue waters. It’s a peaceful, serene environment so we follow the river for a while.

However, the further we walk, the more overgrown the path becomes, and at one point, we decide to turn back. Did we miss out on something? I guess we’ll never know.

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Thoughts?

It was a rather quick stop, but a very beautiful one. Kravice waterfalls are very dreamy. So you can get a lot of quick travel dopamine from just taking in the views.

FAQs About Visiting Kravice Waterfalls in Bosnia and Herzegovina

Should I choose Kravice Waterfalls or Krka, or both?
It really depends on where you’re based. Since we were travelling around, we visited both (and Plitvice too). If you’re travelling through Bosnia or staying in Dubrovnik, Kravice is more conveniently located. But if you’re staying somewhere like Zadar, the drive to Kravice might not be worth it.

If you’re after stunning sights or the perfect photo, Kravice is a more budget-friendly option, with a dreamier atmosphere. However, if you’re looking for a full-day hiking adventure with a variety of things to see and do, Krka offers more to explore.

But if you are near both and your budget allows, why not explore both?

What other attractions can I see near Kravice Waterfalls?
We combined our visit to Kravice with the charming, half-abandoned village of Počitelj and a trip to Mostar. Both were unforgettable experiences and well worth the visit.

What should I bring when visiting Kravice Waterfalls?

• If you plan on swimming: a swimsuit and a towel.
• Cash (for entry and local purchases).
• Comfortable walking shoes for exploring the area.

What makes visiting Mostar in Bosnia and Herzegovina such an unforgettable experience? Is it the breathtaking moment when you witness one of the divers leaping into the coldest river in the world? Or is it the rollercoaster of colours and culture in Mostars Old Bazar? Perhaps it’s all the fascinating Ottoman architecture you can see in Mostar?

With so many unique experiences to offer, it’s a tough question to answer. So let’s take a virtual walk and explore what to see in Mostar together. That way, you can decide which of these remarkable experiences will make your heart leap with joy.

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What to see in Mostar:

What to see in Mostar Old Town

Outside of Mostar’s Old Town, the scars of the Yugoslav war are still visible. You’ll encounter buildings riddled with bullet holes and the ruins of houses scattered throughout the city streets. It’s heartbreaking. But as you step into Mostar’s Old Town, it feels as though you’ve stumbled into a time portal. With the naked eye, it’s almost impossible to tell all the immense work that has been done to restore the war-torn Stari Most and its surroundings to their former glory.

Marvel at Mostar’s Intriguing Architecture

To a foreigner parts of Mostars old town may look like they belong to a bygone era, but they are actually still in use and as lively as ever.  The old buildings from different architectural styles mingle with shop stalls and little cafes advertising Turkish tea and Bosnian coffee.

The narrow streets are covered in round cobblestones, polished by the thousands of feet that have walked them. In front of you there are many historic houses made of stone that just look like they have witnessed centuries go by and the skyline is adorned with many minarets.

So I think your best bet is just to dive in the crowd and explore.

Did you know there is more than one bridge to see in Mostar? Crooked Bridge

Location

Before stepping onto Mostar’s most famous bridge, let’s take a little detour and look at its older brother—the Kriva Ćuprija, also known as the Crooked Bridge. Although much smaller in size, it has the same iconic shape, and it’s believed to have been built as a test run for its more famous relative. I think it’s quite photogenic, too.

Now that Mostar’s Crooked Bridge has gotten some well-deserved attention, it’s time to visit the star of the show.

Will You Be Lucky Enough to See Divers Jump From Mostar’s bridge?

Location for best view of the Stari Most

There are some landmarks that are just iconic. Mostar’s Stari Most is one of them.

But what makes it outstanding? Is it its unique, bent shape? Or perhaps the way the rough rocks used in its construction and the buildings on both ends give it a historic feel, even for those who don’t know its story?

Or maybe it’s the divers. They certainly put on a show—clapping, cheering, and collecting coins. But will they actually jump? Good question.

A person climbs over the railing, and everyone is cheering… and then he climbs back to the other side. What a tease! It’s already been more than 30 minutes (that’s how dedicated we are), and that’s as far as they’ve gotten. It seems a lot of people are starting to give up.

I’ll let you in on a little secret. I overheard this in the crowd: you can tell that Mostar’s divers are actually going to jump if they splash cold water over themselves. This helps bring their body temperature closer to that of the Neretva River, which, as it turns out, is the coldest river in the world. If they didn’t do this, they would likely risk a heart attack. Makes the whole jump much more impressive, doesn’t it?

Finally, one of the divers climbs over the railing again and this time also empties a bottle of water over himself. Game on! His mates give him high fives as the crowd cheers. Then he jumps in.

Hurray!

After the performance, we’re ready to actually cross the bridge and dive into another must-see place in Mostar—its old market.

The Old Market of Mostar May Make Your Head Spin (In a Good Way)

Location

As soon as you see the first colorful building and the first market stall, you realize—the window shopping experience here is on steroids!

There are thousands of little trinkets surrounding you. You look to one side and see colorful embroidered scarves and bags. You look to the other and spot plates adorned with bright patterns. You see cezves (the traditional coffee makers), Turkish delights, magnets, and other souvenirs. Some of the items appear to be mass-produced, while others look like they are handcrafted. If you keep your eyes open, you might even spot a metalworker hard at work making another bracelet in his shop.

Yes, the place is buzzing with people, but this time, it actually adds to the atmosphere. With so many colors, textures, and sounds, Mostar’s Old Bazar may just make your head spin.

I could browse the goods for quite a while, but when your ready for a bit of a peaceful break, let’s head to the next stop on our what to see in Mostar itinerary.

Deep Dive in the Religious Architecture of Mostar: Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque

Location

Has an entry cost (was ~7.70 eur in 2024)

While exploring Mostar, you’ll spot multiple domes and many minarets of mosques, some of which are open for the public to explore. Today, we will look inside the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque (built in the 17th century), which is not the biggest mosque to see in Mostar but is considered a great example of Ottoman architecture.

Before we go in, I just want to stress that I by no means want to be disrespectful in any way, so my apologies in advance if I say something incorrect due to my limited knowledge of Islam.

In the courtyard, the first thing you notice is the ablution fountain sheltered by a stone canopy with a stone plaque roof. One of the many things you may learn on this visit (or maybe you already know this) is that in Islam, these types of fountains are used for the mandatory washing before prayer.

You can buy the entrance tickets by the door, and we also ask if we are allowed to film inside, to which the person selling the tickets kindly agrees.

When you open the door, a very colorful prayer room unfolds. There are intricate paintings on the walls, stained glass mosaics in the windows, and fun patterns woven into the fabrics of the carpets. A large chandelier hangs from the domed ceiling. It’s beautiful! If you wish to learn a bit more, there is a little information board on the left-hand side highlighting some of the key features of mosques.

In Mostar’s Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque, you can also climb the minaret. The narrow, winding stairs may give you a bit of claustrophobia, but the views from the top are breathtaking. Can you spot the colorful buildings of Mostar’s market we just walked through? And the people on the Stari Most look tiny as ants from up here! Lastly, the ticket price includes entrance to a little garden that boasts arguably the best views of the cityscape and the Stari Most.

A Peak Into One of Mostars Historic Houses – Biscevic House

Location

Has a small entry cost (was ~2 eur in 2024)

The last place we will visit is one of the historic Ottoman houses.

Although the concept of stepping into a room that still holds its historic interior is very intriguing, as soon as you walk in, we discover that the house is rather small—consisting of two main rooms, a little bedroom, and (interestingly) a kitchen that is detached from the other living spaces. That wouldn’t be a problem in itself, as that’s historically accurate. However, the issue we face is that it is crowded with people, and there isn’t much space to turn around and really appreciate the wooden details and patterned rugs.

However, it turns out that the Biscevic House is not the only historic house turned into a museum that you can see in Mostar. So, if you find that there are too many people here for you to enjoy the experience, you could also try your luck in one of the other houses. That’s up to you.

To me, there are two contenders for the most interesting part of this house. One is the open-air courtyard with a fun fountain that seems to be made of boiling kettles with long pourers. The other is the room designated as the men’s area of the home (also used for entertaining guests and conducting business), which features large windows facing the Neretva River and elaborately decorated seating and calligraphy artwork displayed on the walls. I think I have to go with the courtyard as my favorite because there is a fun surprise—a live turtle roaming around!

But now we have explored a lot, so I think it is time to wrap up our what to see in Mostar guide with a sweet treat.

Treat Yourself With a Fig Cake and Bosnian Coffee

In Bosnia, coffee is not just your daily shot of caffeine; it’s a lifestyle. Interestingly, it has also historically been used as a passive-aggressive way to tell someone off. So, let’s sit down for a cup of Bosnian coffee, and I will tell you more.

So how do you convey all your thoughts about someone with a cup of coffee? By making the coffee too strong or serving it cold—in other words, by making the coffee undrinkable. Therefore, if you lived in the Ottoman era and visited your neighbour, and they served you cold coffee twice, you would know that you are no longer welcome and should leave. This is what I love about travel: you hear so many fascinating stories.

But back to our own coffee-tasting experience. Bosnian coffee is quite strong by default, so even if you drink it the Bosnian way (see more details here), you may want to pair it with a dessert. Since we are in Mostar, we should try the local fig cake (Smokvara).

The cake is sticky, but contrary to what you may expect from a dessert drizzled in fig syrup, it is not overly sweet. The taste somehow reminds me a bit of bread pudding, if you have ever had that. Enjoy!

What to See in Mostar in 360 video

You can also learn what to see in Mostar by immersing yourself in our 360 degree video (the one where you can move the camera around). Just make sure you increase the video quality in settings for the best viewing experience 😉

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Thoughts?

For me, there are so many unique things to see in Mostar that I can wholeheartedly call it a must-visit. Yes, I’m not going to lie—there are crowds of people you’ll have to coexist with. But that is for a good reason. It’s such a great example of Ottoman architecture and is so lively and rich in culture that it is bound to leave a long-lasting memory.

I hope my what to see in Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina guide comes in handy when you are planning your own Mostar day-trip. But now lets head to our next stop – Sarajevo.

FAQs About What to See in Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Is there anything I need to bring with me when traveling to Mostar?

• Comfortable walking shoes with good grip. The cobblestones, especially on the Stari Most, are very slippery, so please do yourself a favor and wear shoes that are suited for slippery surfaces.
• Modest clothing. One day during my trip to Bosnia, I made the mistake of wearing shorts. Although no one called me out directly, I did feel uncomfortable. I regret my choice and would highly recommend being more respectful by wearing something that covers your knees and shoulders.
• Cash. If you wish to purchase something at Mostar’s Stari Bazar or get an ice cream, they don’t seem to accept cards, so bring some physical currency with you.

Any recommendations for where to eat when travelling to Mostar?

We had a very filling and budget-friendly dinner at Hindin Han. The restaurant serves local cuisine like ćevapi and various other meat dishes (Bosnian cuisine is very meat-heavy), and most of the main entrées were less than 10 euros per portion (as of May 2024).

Any day trip recommendations from Mostar?

There are plenty of interesting things to see in Mostar, however if you are lucky enough to spend more than 1 day in this unique town you have some fun day trip options to choose from. I highly recommend visiting the historic village of Počitelj and Tito’s bunker. The Kravice Waterfalls and Blagaj are also popular day trip options from Mostar.

Why did we choose to visit Mostar ourselves instead of taking an organised day tour?

Mainly because we were exploring more than just Mostar (we visited Počitelj and Kravice first and then headed to Sarajevo afterward). Secondly there were many things we wanted to see in Mostar so we wanted to have a bit more time than the daytrips from Split offered.

Also for 2 people it was cheaper to rent a car and spend a night in Mostar than to pay for a tour and hotel in Split as the accommodation at the time of our visit was much cheaper in Mostar than in Croatia.

However, if you are visiting just Mostar or are unable to drive, then an organized day trip should be a good alternative. I would recommend picking one that not only covers places to see in Mostar, but also stops at Počitelj and/or Kravice, as those were some of the highlights of our time in Bosnia and Herzegovina as well.

Other things you should know when travelling to Mostar

Smoking is still allowed in public spaces like cafés and restaurants. 

According to our car rental company in Croatia, cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina, like Mostar and Sarajevo, are completely safe to visit. We felt very safe and welcomed there ourselves. However, they advised that one might get into trouble by visiting remote, rural areas of Bosnia with rental cars bearing foreign plates. So please keep that in mind.

What to see in Mostar, Bosnia and Herzegovina if you have very limited time

The choice is hard! But if you are short on time and need to choose only one or two places to see in Mostar, I would go for the Mostars Old Bazar and Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque. And you will cross the famous bridge or at least see it from the mosque anyways.

In Bosnia and Herzegovina, not far from Mostar, there’s a hill overlooking the Neretva River. And on that hill sits the historic village of Počitelj —partly faded away.

This captivating site serves as a living testament to the unpredictability and fragility of life. Once a strategic stronghold and administrative centre during the Middle Ages, Počitelj was reduced to dust and ruin during the Bosnian War, earning a spot on the World Monuments Fund’s list of the 100 Most Endangered Cultural Heritage Sites in 1996.

But what awaits you in Počitelj today? Is it merely a crumbling ruin, or does someone still call this place home? Perhaps it’s a mix of both. Let’s find out together!  

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What to see in Počitelj, Bosnia and Herzegovina:

What to See in Počitelj, Bosnia and Herzegovina?

We park the car at the base of the hill where Počitelj quietly awaits, perched above us. Looking up, you can already sense the adventure that awaits. Through the lush green trees, Ottoman-era buildings peek out— longing to tell their story. From here, you can spot the little domes of the Medresa (a Muslim religious high school), a tall stone clock tower, and the slender tip of a minaret reaching for the sky. Exciting, right?

And as the cherry on top—high above it all—sits the crumbling, abandoned fortress of Počitelj, a remnant of a once-mighty stronghold. What secrets does it hold?

Welcome to Počitelj – The City Made of Stone

The stone walls wind through the Počitelj like veins through the human body, and today, they will guide us on our journey.

When you pass through the first layer of stone fortifications, you find yourself on the ground level of Počitelj, surrounded by cars, tourists, and colorful souvenir shops. It’s not the ghost town you might expect after hearing that most of the population fled during the war. Clearly, someone still calls this place home—or at least works here.

A narrow cobblestone path winds between the stone walls, promising to lead us up the mountain. Since the walls are our guides in Počitelj, let’s follow it!

On the way up, we pass many historic houses, most made of rustic stone blocks and topped with diamond-patterned stone slab roofs. By now, you can see why Počitelj is sometimes called the city of stone. The whole place feels so different from the world I know. The picturesque streets of Počitelj create an atmosphere so distinct from the hustle and bustle of big city life that it’s as if you’ve travelled back in time, leaving the modern world behind.

Počitelj Architecture

According to UNESCO, the village of Počitelj reflects a blend of Ottoman and Medieval influences. However, my untrained eye is mostly picking up on the Ottoman vibes, likely due to the prominent landmarks. One of these is the Medresa—a Muslim religious high school. Nestled among the bushes and plants, it is partially hidden from view, but you can easily recognize it by the distinctive row of domes. The five smaller domes cover the classrooms, while the larger one tops the lecture room.

Another key attraction we pass by is the single-dome Mosque of Šišman Ibrahim-Paša, built in the 16th century. You can enter it for a small fee, but since I didn’t think ahead, I’m not dressed appropriately for a visit. It’s a bummer, but at least we’ll have a great view of its restored dome and minaret from higher up the mountain.

Our path doesn’t go directly past the third attraction in Počitelj—the clock tower—but you can still see it standing tall in the distance, with openings on all sides and a stone pyramid atop it. If you travel a bit more through Bosnia and Herzegovina, you’ll notice that clock towers hold significant importance in this region. There’s a prominent one in Sarajevo that still shows lunar time.

However, since not much information is available about this particular tower, let’s continue our climb upwards, as the views of the village below become more spectacular with every step.

When Was The Last Time You Felt Like You Are in an Indiana Jones Movie?

Počitelj is truly a bit of a mystery. In the blink of an eye, it transforms from a stone city into what I can only describe as an abandoned garden. 

The paths grow narrower, and the greenery has claimed so much space that it’s almost impossible to escape the leaves brushing against your arms as you pass through these almost secret passages. You can’t help but feel like you’ve stepped into an adventure movie.

And the higher you climb, the more ruin-like Počitelj becomes. Up the hill, there are many abandoned houses that are overtaken by nature, with ivy creeping up the stone walls and bushes pushing through glassless windows and stone arches. And another house may look intact until you realise the empty windows are staring into nothingness. 

Did I say Počitelj isn’t a ghost town? For a moment, it certainly feels like one—until you stumble upon a soda fridge displaying some homemade drinks for sale. There is no soul in sight, but someone must still be living here.

Do You Dare to Explore the Počitelj Fortress?

Finally, we reach the top of the hill where the Počitelj fortress sits—and what a view! From up here, you can see the stone houses of Počitelj scattered among the greenery, with the Neretva River winding gracefully through the lush forests below. In the distance, you can spot mountains, roads, and other villages.

There’s also a massive highway bridge that looks either abandoned or still under construction, its modern structure feeling oddly out of place in this otherwise timeless setting. Yet, all these things seem so far away, and even from up here, you feel a world apart from the life you know.

One could stand here for quite a while, just soaking in the incredible view. But the little adventure-craving monster inside me is itching for something more exciting. How about we explore that octagon-shaped stone tower? Do you dare?

The Počitelj fortress was built between the 15th and 18th centuries, so it has been standing here for a very long time. While the entrance to the tower isn’t restricted, venturing inside is entirely at your own risk. Let’s take a peek and evaluate the situation.

At the bottom level, there’s not much to see, but there are narrow stone stairs spiralling upward. So the adventure continues! As you climb a couple of staircases, an opening in the inner wall reveals the hollow core of the tower, where windows and niches are placed whimsically along the stone walls.

As you climb a couple of staircases, an opening in the inner wall reveals the hollow core of the tower, where windows and niches are placed asymmetrically along the stone walls, giving the space a whimsical feel.

When you reach the top, a small room unfolds, its windows pointing in every direction. The room is empty, except for the bare walls and gravel-covered floor, but it has a unique vibe. From this higher vantage point, the panorama becomes even more breathtaking.

At the end of the stairs, a room unfolds with windows pointing in all directions. There is nothing in it besides the bare walls and the gravel covering the floor, but it has a unique vibe. 

From up here, you can see that our trusty guide—the stone wall—stretches across the entire hilltop to another viewpoint in the distance. I guess that’s where we should be heading next!

What Happened to the Dream of Počitelj’s Rebirth?

From afar, the other end of the fortress looks promising, with railings and some glass details hinting at a viewing platform.

However, when you arrive, you find a rather sad view. Clearly, time and effort were spent to create something that looks like it might have become a tourism center, but the construction sits unfinished, with missing parts and holes. It appears to have been neglected for a long time, as ivy and fig trees grow through the cracks. How many years does it take for a fig tree to grow?

Don’t get me wrong—the views from the platforms are still amazing. It’s worth visiting both lookout spots, as from here you also get a great angle of the octagonal tower we just explored. But I can’t help but feel a bit scared to enter the empty rooms below; that’s where the adventure may just turn into a horror story. It’s just sad that whatever was started here wasn’t carried through, especially since Počitelj has turned out to be such an intriguing and fascinating place to explore.

So, let’s return to the picturesque streets below and wander around a bit more before we have to leave for Mostar.

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Thoughts?

When I travel, I’m most captivated by places that provide a glimpse into a different culture or transport me to another time. Počitelj in Bosnia and Herzegovina offers both, making it a true jackpot of experiences! I definitely recommend visiting. As well as I truly hope that the dream about Počitelj rebirth hasn’t faded away.

What to See Near Počitelj, Bosnia and Herzegovina

Before visiting Počitelj in Bosnia and Herzegovina we also stopped at Kravice waterfalls and then headed over to Mostar.

Is the water at Plitvice Lakes National Park really as blue as it looks in the photos? The vibrant turquoise looks suspiciously perfect. Is the main waterfall really as breathtaking as people claim? And what about that serene stroll on wooden pathways, surrounded by lush greenery and cascading waterfalls? Does it feel like walking through a dream, or do you find yourself stuck in traffic jams caused by crowds of selfie-takers? 

Plitvice Lakes National Park in Croatia is world-renowned, and with fame comes expectation. Everyone visits with a vision in their head of what this natural wonder should be like. Today, I’m not going to list out the top things to do—that’s been done a thousand times. Instead, I want to take you through the park from an “expectations vs. reality” lens, comparing everything I thought Plitvice would be to what it actually was. Spoiler alert: I loved it! But there was definitely some mismatch between my expectations and what it turned out to be.

So, grab your virtual hiking boots and join me on a walk through Plitvice Lakes to set our expectations straight together.

PS: This is based on a single day, June 4th, 2024, so in some cases, I may have just gotten lucky or very unlucky.

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Similar experiences: Krka National Park, Croatia

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Is the Main Waterfall of Plitvice Really That Spectacular?

Expectation

A breathtaking spectacle of nature, where water flows endlessly over towering cliffs, creating a multi-level cascade framed by lush, overhanging trees.

Reality

It depends on the season.

We enter the park through the Lower Lakes entrance (Entrance 1), and barely a few steps in, there it is—the magnificent Veliki Slap waterfall. It’s like getting dessert before dinner. The sight is stunning— as it is very early summer when the water levels are still high, the falls are as powerful and majestic as one could hope for. This waterfall looks like something you’d find hidden in the rainforests.

This is a promising start.

However, as I’ve heard from other travellers (and seen some pics), it is not always that way. If you visit in the middle of summer when water levels are low, you’ll see less powerful streams. The waterfalls need to take it easy at times, too.

But if you are unsure – here is a hack – set your expectations straight by checking the livestream available on Plitvice Lakes website a couple of days in advance. 

Is the Water in Plitvice Lakes National Park Really That Blue?

Expectations

A surreal, vivid turquoise that almost doesn’t seem real. The kind of colour that would make you question your camera’s filter settings.

Reality

The water really is THAT blue.

We began our walk down the pathways, and at first, the lakes are hidden behind thick groves of trees. But when the first lake unfolds, it’s a real “wow” moment.

Then we follow winding wooden pathways that hover just above the calm surface of the lakes. The water is so transparent you can see every detail of the plants growing beneath the surface and the fish swimming by. The scene is dotted with clusters of reeds, towering rock walls and at times tree branches are arching over the path creating a perfect, fairy tail like scene.

How Big of a Crowd Do You Have to Survive in Plitvice National Park?

Expectations

A peaceful, unhurried walk, with plenty of time to soak in the natural beauty at your own pace.

Reality

Ah, if only. By 11 AM the park is very CROWDED.

There are some breathing spaces, but at the most photographic locations, there are traffic jams that slow you down and sometimes even stop you for a while. For me, the sheer beauty of the place made up for the inconvenience of the crowds, but if you’re someone that gets crowd anxiety, Plitvice at rush hour may not be the place for you.

That being said, we noticed an interesting shift toward the end of the day. About an hour and a half before closing time, the crowds started thinning, and for the first time all day, we were able to experience the park in near solitude. The stillness was magical, and for those last quiet moments, it felt like we had the entire place almost to ourselves.

Do You Get to Experience a Fun, Free Boat Ride in Plitvice National Park?

Expectations

A quick hop onto a boat that whisks you across tranquil waters to Upper lakes, giving you time to kick back and enjoy the view.

Reality

Yes, there is a boat ride, and yes, it’s free—but don’t expect to just hop on it, as there may be an exhausting que.

When we arrive at the dock for the boat that takes you to the Upper Lakes, we are greeted by a sea of people. The wait time for us is 40+ minutes. If you’re not one for standing in line, there is an alternative: you can hike to the Upper Lakes. But be warned, the paths aren’t all the smooth wooden walkways you’ll find elsewhere. Some parts are dirt trails, so in a wet weather be ready to get your boots dirty. 

The boat ride does sound really fun… So I am vetoing it – let’s wait, and then we can walk back if we have the strength.

And although the que was a bit of an annoyance I am glad that we waited. The ride itself is calming, a slow drift across the turquoise waters that gives us a chance to sit back and take in the beauty from a different perspective. After hiking through the park, it was a welcome break.

Which Part of Plitvice is Better – Upper Lakes or Lower Lakes?

Expectation

The Lower Lakes are more popular, so they must be the better part of the park. Right?

Reality

It really depends on what you’re looking for.

If you’re after the crown jewel, the main waterfall, you’ll find it in the Lower Lakes. But the Upper Lakes seem to have more waterfalls overall, and you can get quite close to them.

Overall, the nature in Upper lakes seems more wilder. Don’t get me wrong, it is still spectacularly beautiful, but it feels more realistic. The Lower lakes are so perfect that you sometimes feel like walking through a staged scene. 

At one point, we find ourselves on a trail that winds along the base of a cliff, with many waterfalls pouring down right next to us. The water is so close that you can feel little speckles on your skin. It’s a magical scene complemented by the greenery draping over the top of the cliffs and the clear blue water of the lakes. This may be my favourite part of the whole park. 

How Much Is There to Do and See in Plitvice Lakes National Park?

Expectations

We’ll probably be done in a few hours—how much can there really be to see?

Reality

​​Hah. How naive I was! There’s plenty to see.

In fact, it took us more than six hours to explore the entire park, and we weren’t bored for a second. Every step of the journey offered something new to marvel at—whether it was the waterfalls, the enormous fish swimming in the clear blue lakes, or the towering rock walls rising out of the water. The landscape constantly shifted, each view more beautiful than the last. By the end, we were exhausted, but every moment felt like a treasure.

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Thoughts?

Overall, Plitvice matched my expectations pretty well.

All good things come with a cost, and Plitvice is no exception. You get dreamy views that are hard to believe, but you also have to deal with slow traffic and queues at times. For me, this trade-off was absolutely worth it.