Once home to a towering Soviet-era monument, Victory Park in Riga underwent a major transformation after the concrete memorial commemorating the Soviet Union’s victory in World War II was dismantled in 2022.
So today, the park tells a very different story—one of renewal, life and energy. Rumor has it, it’s now one of the most beautiful spots for a walk in Riga. But is that really true? We have to find out! And adding to its new charm, 2025 brought a bold feature: the Riga Ferris Wheel. Nestled on the edge of Uzvaras Parks, it offers sweeping panoramic views over the city’s rooftops. So join me for a stroll through this reimagined green space and see how this iconic part of Riga has evolved since its bold makeover..
How Uzvaras Parks (Victory park) in Rīga Looks After It’s Makeover
Stroll in Victory park in Riga
After its renovation, Victory Park in Riga has taken on a romantic new character. It’s now full of flowerbeds brimming with freedom-loving plants that seem to have wild, wind-tossed hair—grasses, bright orange rudbeckia, mysterious purple-budded blooms, and small, leafy bushes.
The wide green lawns are sprinkled with blooming meadow plants that evoke the feeling of Latvian Midsummer—when everything is lush, alive, and at its vibrant peak. At the heart of the renewed Victory Park in Riga lies a peaceful duck pond, its edges gently overgrown with tall reeds. And just beside this body of water—where the concrete monument once stood—the Latvian flag now proudly flutters in the wind.
Because Victory Park in Riga is a shared space for both walkers and those enjoying more active leisure, its paths are cleverly built on two levels. One is for people like us, who want to enjoy a peaceful stroll, and the other is dedicated to rollerbladers and cyclists.
But what happens when the two paths meet? Well, sometimes one crosses over the other via a small bridge, or slips under a grassy mound through a tunnel that looks a bit like the entrance to a hobbit house. I think those little tunnels in Victory park in Riga are quite iconic and fun!
Active Leisure in Riga’s Victory Park
As we continue our leisurely walk, we pass by several playgrounds with swings and trampolines. On sunny days, the sound of children’s laughter drifts through the air, echoing across the park.
At the far end of Victory Park in Riga, there’s a skateboarding area and a rental station where you can pick up roller skates—perfect for enjoying the park’s dedicated skating trails. In winter, this same spot offers ski rentals for snowy adventures.
And if you visit on a summer evening, don’t be surprised to spot a group or two doing outdoor aerobics, adding even more energy to this lively, shared green space.
There’s no denying it—after the renovations, Victory Park in Riga has become a lively garden, perfect for families, casual strolls with loved ones, or simply enjoying a peaceful walk on your own.
Looking for a place to soothe a restless mind or an aching heart? Ķemeri Sanatorium was once Latvia’s most prestigious rehabilitation center. Alongside mud baths and sulfur water, a key part of the healing process was believed to be quiet walks through the scenic Ķemeri Resort Park.
I am not a doctor and can’t speak for the science of healing—but from the experience I do know that a peaceful walk in a beautiful place can calm an overwhelmed mind and ease a heavy soul. Though the Ķemeri sanatorium has long since closed its doors, the park has been lovingly restored and is just as tranquil as ever.
So come—take a leisurely stroll with me through Ķemeri Resort Park. And while we’re here, let’s climb the old Ķemeri water tower as well.
The silhouette of the Ķemeri Water Tower is hard to miss—you can spot it from a distance, rising above the treetops like a curious architectural puzzle. It almost looks as if it was sticked together from three different towers: a white, textured base; a pastel pink middle adorned with white trim that reminds me of a layer of wedding cake; and a tall, red cylindrical top, crowned by the Latvian flag fluttering proudly in the wind.
But before you decide to head to Ķemeri Water Tower, a word of warning: spontaneity won’t work here. Due to the limited capacity of the rooftop viewing platform, advance reservations by phone are mandatory. You can’t just swing by on a whim.
And another fair warning—this climb isn’t for the faint of heart. The stairs of the Ķemeri Water Tower are narrow and steep, the steps small, and to reach the rooftop, you’ll need to climb through a hatch. Unfortunately, this means the tower isn’t accessible to everyone.
But if you are up for a climb…
What’s Inside the Belly of the Ķemeri Water Tower?
Your visit begins with a small exhibit on the tower’s history and notable figures from the area. Then you’ll head to the first observation deck, offering panoramic views of the surrounding Ķemeri Resort Park.
From there, you can make your way to the fourth floor of Ķemeri Water Tower. Here, you might have to wait a bit before going up to the rooftop—only five people are allowed at the top observation deck of the Ķemeri Water Tower at a time, which is why reservations are needed.
The good news? You won’t be bored while waiting. This floor features some interactive displays. You can take a playful photo with a lady enjoying a mud bath (or choose from three other historic photo backdrops), and enjoy a ballad while seated in the musical chair.
Or you can take a closer look at the industrial interior and photographs lining the walls tell the story of how the park once looked—back at the days when ladies still strolled beneath parasols.
How Are the Views From the Top of Ķemeri Water Tower?
Once you’ve overcome your fears and climbed the narrow metal staircases, you’re rewarded with an open-air panorama from the top of the Ķemeri Water Tower.
Take a deep breath—and look around.
To one side, the quiet ruins of old sanatorium buildings sit half-hidden among the trees, slowly being reclaimed by nature.
To the other, a vast sea of treetops stretches all the way to the horizon. And nestled in between lies the restored Ķemeri Sanatorium Park, with many paths winding through the greenery.
“But where’s the real sea?” you might wonder.
Maybe it’s too far to see… or maybe not. If you look closely (or try one of the free binoculars), you might catch a faint, bluish line just above the horizon—slightly different from the sky. Maybe it’s the sea. Or maybe it’s just a trick of the light.
Stroll Through Ķemeri Resort Park
Between the woods and wide-open lawns—now, in early summer, dotted with hundreds of tiny white flowers—a peaceful network of winding paths stretches out before you. These trails are linked by picturesque bridges arching over the Veršupīte River, each one inviting you to slow down and take in the view.
This time of year, Ķemeri Resort Park feels especially romantic—perfect for a leisurely walk.
So, where shall we go first?
The Pavilion on Love Island of Ķemeri Resort Park
First, let’s head over to Love Island, tucked away in a quiet corner of Ķemeri Resort Park. Sitting pretty on the island is a dainty white pavilion where guests used to sip tea and coffee while listening to the radio.
These days, it looks like they are selling ice cream there instead. How cute!
The whole scene is delightfully charming—especially with the metallic bird sculptures near the front, where couples have hung love locks, to make their love eternal.
Hotel Ķemeri
Next, head over to the old building of Hotel Ķemeri, which in its golden days was one of Latvia’s most prestigious establishments. The rich, influential, and famous once stayed here.
Today, the hotel stands silent and empty, leaving visitors to wonder what secrets its walls might hold inside. From the outside, however, it still looks like a white castle—adorned with grand columns, arched windows, and delicate little balconies.
In front, a vast garden stretches out, where grass, trimmed bushes, and winding pathways form neat geometric patterns, quietly holding onto the elegance of a bygone era.
The Sulfur Spring of Ķemeri Resort Park
Our last stop in Ķemeri Resort Park is the sulfur spring known as the Little Lizard. You’ll find it by following your nose—because, well, the smell kind of leads the way!
From the mouth of this little stone reptile flows dark, sulfurous water. But your attention might quickly shift to the white canopy behind it. Beneath the glass dome sits what looks like a well, where dark water bubbles and foams together, creating a kind of witchy soup.
Can someone explain what I’m looking at? Because honestly, I’m not quite sure!
I can see there are more trails stretching out through Ķemeri Resort Park—if you have some extra time, you could easily explore a few more. But since I need to head to my next destination for the day, I’m sorry to say I have to end my adventure here.
That said, if what I’ve shared about Ķemeri Resort Park has sparked your curiosity, why not come and wander these paths yourself? There’s plenty here to discover.
Thoughts?
Since Ķemeri is only about 50 km from Riga city center, Ķemeri Resort Park makes a perfect spot for a leisurely weekend day trip. Just be sure to book the Ķemeri Water Tower in advance—it’s the highlight of the visit.
And if you want to extend your adventure, the area is full of nearby attractions: the Kaņieris Reed Trail, Sloka Lake Trail, and the mysterious Witches’ Swamp are all close by.
It’s always a pleasure to discover a sightseeing spot right here in the capital that can be visited without much effort or long drives. This time, our journey takes us to Daugavgrīva, home to possibly the most impressive and eeriest fortress ruins in Latvia – the Daugavgrīva Fortress. And it turns out that just a stone’s throw from the fortress lies a lesser-known destination – the Daugavgrīva Nature Trail, offering a chance to explore floodplain lagoon meadows.
Daugavgrīva Fortress is considered one of Latvia’s most valuable military heritage sites, with origins dating back to the 17th century. Over time, it has been seized, shelled, bombed, conquered, and rebuilt. It has changed rulers multiple times and has even been visited by multiple monarchs. During World War I, some of the first Latvian riflemen units were formed here (source). In short, this fortress has a long and complicated life story.
In the late 20th century, the Daugavgrīva fortress lost its military importance and now seems to be slowly crumbling. However, there are rumors about plans for its restoration and maintenance. As of April 2025, the Daugavgrīva fortress is still open to visitors on Saturdays and Sundays during specific hours. The limited opening times only add to the intrigue – but before heading to Daugavgrīva, it’s definitely worth checking the latest updates to see if it’s still accessible to tourists.
When we arrive at the starting point of our adventure, we find the Daugavgrīva fortress hidden behind a moat and an earthen rampart, adding a sense of adventure even before stepping inside. So let’s gather our courage and walk through the gates guarding Daugavgrīva Fortress to find out what secrets lie within.
What Can You See Inside the Daugavgrīva Fortress?
It turns out the “belly” of Daugavgrīva Fortress is empty – inside is an overgrown outdoor area that looks rather abandoned and gloomy during the spring season. All the real adventure and spooky chambers are found in the fortress walls.
A tall tower also rises here with a crumbling top. My first thought was that it’s a watchtower. But after reading some information online, I lean toward it actually being an Orthodox church that once stood within the Daugavgrīva fortress grounds.
So let’s not waste time – off we go to explore the most interesting part of the fortress: the defensive walls. Their empty windows stare back at you like dark eyes.
Each Spooky Chamber of Daugavgrīva Fortress Has Its Own Style
Behind doors and window openings lies a labyrinth of dark, half-collapsed rooms. Interestingly, each chamber has its own unique vibe.
In the first one, the crumbling walls are covered with something green, and as you get closer, you can feel the cold and dampness radiating from them. Some floors are completely bare, while others are covered with old, broken planks. It’s creepy and fascinating at the same time – just watch your step! Some rooms even have informational stands about the Daugavgrīva fortress’s history, giving it a bit of a museum feel.
The next chamber greets you with a photogenic series of arches. The walls here were once painted, but now the paint is peeling off in large flakes.
Then there’s a room full of tree branches sticking out of the ground, adding to the ghostly atmosphere – as if the room has lost a battle with nature.
As you continue moving from room to room, you also come across a dark tunnel. Where it leads – who knows? Stepping inside makes your heart beat faster. You know how in video games, there’s always a monster hiding in places like this, right?
Finally, we reach a room where train tracks disappear into the darkness – time to pull out the phone flashlight. Pretty unsettling!
So, after playing hide-and-seek with the unknown, we’ve made a full circle. Daugavgrīva Fortress turned out to be far more interesting and diverse than I expected!
But if the Daugavgrīva fortress visit felt a bit too short, you can extend the adventure with a trip to the Daugavgrīva Nature Trail, just a few minutes’ drive away.
At the start of the Daugavgrīva nature trail, the first thing that catches the eye is a long, straight cobblestone path stretching endlessly into the distance. A gut feel tells me the sea might be at the end, but from here, you can neither see nor hear it.
In early April, nature is still asleep – the meadows on both sides of the path are golden-brown, and some of the dry grasses are soaking in large puddles.
Daugavgrīva Birdwatching Tower
Just a few dozen steps in, the Daugavgrīva birdwatching tower comes into view. This area happens to lie along one of Europe’s most important bird migration routes. If you’re into ornithology, you probably knew that already. If not, you’re likely more curious about the view from the top.
The tower’s high foundation suggests that water levels here are quite variable – meaning the landscape you see today might be completely different in just a few weeks.
Today, the wide meadows seen from the tower are completely dry and resemble a golden field swaying gently in the wind. Instead of grain, there are thousands of reeds – so tall they’d tower over me if I stood next to them.
Daugavgrīva The Nature Trail’s Boardwalk
In the middle of this vast reed field a boardwalk winds like a snake. Let’s go stretch our legs!
The Daugavgrīva boardwalk seems to be one-way with only a single passing spot, but since there aren’t many people on the trail today – just one man out walking his cat – it’s not a problem.
Seems like we’re here off-season, because today the meadows on either side are completely dry. That means that at the moment the Daugavgrīva trail lacks the charm seen in photos with flooded fields. All around is just a sea of dried grass, that makes you wonder if the boardwalk is even necessary.
Even though we’re still in Riga, apartment blocks are visible only in the distance, beyond the bare branches of the trees, giving the trail a peaceful and unhurried aura.
Around a bend, the Daugavgrīva nature trail leads into a small grove. Here, in the shade of the trees, the trail looks much more intriguing – the grass surrounding the boardwalk sinks into pools of water, reflecting the bare branches above.
We take a moment to enjoy the early spring landscape, until the Daugavgrīva Nature Trail leads us to a sand dune behind which the roaring sea awaits. From here, the choice is yours – continue along the coast or turn back.
So, what do you think?
Daugavgrīva Fortress turned out to be even more mysterious than I had expected. It’s one of those places where you feel like you’re in a video game. As for the nature trail – maybe we just didn’t come on the right day. It would’ve been much cooler if the meadows had been flooded.
Has visiting the market turned from a necessity to a trend these days? I would say yes, to some extent, at least for some people. You can find a gastro market in almost every big city. And a visit to the market on a Sunday, like enjoying a coffee and a freshly baked pastry in a Parisian bakery, is somewhat romanticized. Therefore, if you are not afraid of hustle and bustle and are attracted to unusual interiors, let’s go on a little adventure to Agenskalns market.
At the Agenskalns market, there will be neither shouting nor the smell of fish nor the saleswoman who catches you as you pass by and tries to convince you that you would look great in those knockoff boots. At least I didn’t meet her. So it is nothing like the markets I remember from my childhood. The shopping experience is deliberately romanticized to attract those people who go to the market on weekends not to look for the best deals but for entertainment.
But is it bad? For things to live, they must adapt to the times. That’s why many activities that used to be a daily necessity for people today get a second life and turn from a need into an experience. Therefore, perceive a visit to the Agenskalns market as a treasure hunt from which you will return either with new impressions, a full stomach, or local delicacies in a bag.
Interior of Agenskalns Market
As soon as you enter the market, look up and appreciate the most intriguing feature of the place – the ceiling. They are designed in an industrial style with panels, pipes, and fans. It should not be a surprise that they most often appear in the pictures posted on social media. It is a market after all. But to create a surprising effect, someone has hung grand crystal chandeliers, which I think is a fun idea! Contrast like this always sticks in your memory.
Āgenskalns Market First Floor – Colourful Shopping Area
Is your reusable bag ready?
Let’s do some delicacy treasure hunting at the market stalls!
On the first floor of Agenskalns Market, you’ll find a variety of product stalls—colorful fresh fruits, tempting cheeses, fresh bread, Molberts ice cream, local craft beer, some more exotic things like olives and other goodies.
Every stall you pass by is a little different. In the bakery section, cakes sit proudly on the shelves. Your mouth starts watering as you imagine how sweet the glaze must be. I bet it literally melts on your tongue! But if you’re craving something savory, the large cheese wheels sit just as majestically as the cakes. And it’s not hard to imagine the smoky aroma you’d get from one of the smoked sausages.
However, in the autumn season, the real kings of the Agenskalns market are definitely the vegetables. Onions, cauliflower, and carrots are practically spilling over the edges of their crates.
Seeing the abundance of fresh produce gets the gears turning in your head, sifting through all the recipe ideas you could try.
Antique Hunting at Agenskalns Market
I’ll be honest, I’m a little bummed that we didn’t come to Agenskalns Market on a day when the Flea Market is operating. Hunting for delicacies is fun, but if we’re talking about romanticizing a market visit, then the stalls filled with the most eclectic mix of items sound like the ultimate adventure. Oh well… The experience will have to sit on my wishlist for a bit longer.
But before we head to the food area, if you don’t mind, I need to make a quick stop at the restrooms.
But what’s this? Guess what’s hidden in the basement on the way to the toilets? An antique shop! We definitely have to check it out.
The store’s shelves and tables are packed with all sorts of intriguing items. Here, you’ll find all kinds of pots, mugs, and small dishes. Let’s have a contest—who can find the most unusual item? I’m voting for that swan-shaped dish, but the game isn’t over yet!
Next, your attention is drawn to several record players and an impressive vinyl collection. I spotted a typewriter.
Deeper into “Skandinavs,”, you’ll find furniture and all kinds of trinkets—old matchboxes, coins, and jewelry. There’s even a shelf with used electronics, in case you happen to need, say, an iron. And at the very back, you’ll find clothes.
You could probably spend half the day carefully inspecting every treasure hidden on these shelves.
But my stomach is growling. So I vote to head to the Agenskalns Market food area. A little bird told me you can even find Georgian khachapuri there!
Agenskalns Market Food Area
The Āgenskalns Market food area is perfect for people who can never agree on what cuisine to choose. No arguments this time—there’s a little bit of everything here. In Āgenskalns Market you’ll find stalls offering Asian cuisine, Georgian dishes, pancakes, pizza, and other delights. For those interested, there are also liquid calories—wine, beer, and cocktails. Ironically, the only thing you probably won’t find here is Latvian cuisine.
All the food stalls share common tables, meaning you can enjoy a completely different meal from your friends, yet still sit together. Great! However, just like in other markets, you might have to fight for a table. It looks like it’s all based on a “first come, first served” principle. Not so great.
But if you do manage to claim a table, while you wait for your buzzer to signal that your food is ready, you can watch the hustle and bustle of the lower floor of Agenskalns Market, where people are busy shopping at the market stalls. It’s fascinating to observe all the movement and excitement.
And if people-watching isn’t your thing, we can check out what books are currently available at the book exchange station. Which one intrigues you the most? Stories about Spain? Or perhaps differentiated math exercises? Or… we could go play a game of table football.
Finally, the buzzer lets out a sharp beep—it’s time to pick up our meal.
Since I’ve been craving khachapuri ever since my trip to Georgia, I went for this hearty treat. It’s delicious. The bread feels a little different than in Georgia, but the cheese is just as rich, salty, and stretchy.
Bon appétit!
And what are your thoughts?
I know opinions differ, and some people might disagree with me, saying that a trip to the market isn’t an adventure. But I believe that visiting Agenskalns Market is an interesting way to spend a leisurely Sunday in Riga. You’ll likely return home with vibrant impressions, a full stomach, and something extra in your bag to snack on later.
Are you ready to stretch your legs, inhale the crisp sea breeze, and lose yourself in the mesmerizing beauty of a Baltic coastal hiking trip? Then join us on a hike along Vidzeme’s rocky shore—a journey that promises tranquility and natural charm.
We’re aiming to cover about 8 kilometers on this Baltic coastal hiking trip along the Vidzeme rocky seashore, but don’t worry if that feels daunting. There are shorter alternatives for a gentler adventure, as well as longer options for those seeking a greater challenge.
A quick heads-up for Instagram enthusiasts: this isn’t a hike filled with grandiose attractions or world-famous photo spots. What you’ll find instead is a raw, untouched beauty—an endless interplay of rocks, the rhythmic crash of waves, and the soothing embrace of nature. This is a hike for the soul. A journey where inner peace takes center stage, paired with the joy of movement and discovery. If that resonates with you, let’s get started!
Logistics for Hiking Along Vidzeme’s Rocky Coastline
When planning a hike along the coastline, you have two options: either walk back and forth along the same route or, if your group has two cars, leave one at the starting point and the other at the endpoint. We opted for the second option.
However, finding a parking spot along the rocky coastline of Vidzeme can be quite a challenge. In Tūja, there’s a small free parking lot and possibly a campsite where you can park for a fee. If you plan to hike to the Veczemju Cliffs, there’s also a paid parking option there. But what about the stretches in between? The only place we found was Brīvnieku Stiga—a short section of road without any “no parking” signs.
Start Your Baltic Coastal Hiking Trip Along Vidzeme Rocky Seashore at Tūja Pier
We begin our hike at Tūja Pier, where the breeze carries the crisp scent of salt and seaweed, mingling with the rhythmic crash of waves. The pier, a relic of bygone days, stretches ahead in uneven sections, bearing the marks of time and the relentless sea. Its far end, now crumbling and surrendered to nature, has been conquered by a group of birds.
It doesn’t feel safe to walk the Tuja pier, but you can’t resist snapping a few photos of its rustic charm.
Did you know that once, a pipe used to run across this very pier? It transported fish from the boats directly to a nearby factory using a fan system. Can you imagine?
With the pier commemorated in photos and the imagination stirred by its story, the adventure calls. The Vidzeme shoreline stretches before us, promising more tales to uncover and beauty to explore. Let’s begin.
The Unique Charm of Vidzeme’s Rocky Coastline
As you begin your walk along the coastline, the unique charm of Vidzeme’s rocky shore quickly becomes clear: it’s the rocks. Though the terrain is mostly sandy and soft beneath your feet, the landscape is alive with stones of every imaginable size, shape, and color. There are more rocks here than even Pokaiņi could boast!
Some are small, smooth, and perfectly round, amusingly reminiscent of rabbit poop. Others are large and jagged, their surfaces etched with ridges and grooves, sculpted over centuries by the restless sea waves. Many are polished and colorful, scattered across the sand like candies glinting in the sunlight.
The farther you venture from Tūja, the more untamed the landscape becomes. With every kilometer, new surprises emerge. In one spot, intricate lines are drawn in the sand, as if an unseen artist had created a Zen garden by the sea.
A little farther stands a wigwam of driftwood. Nearby, a name etched into the shore tells a fleeting story, left behind for the next wanderer to find.
Feeling inspired, you pause to leave your own mark on this living canvas of sand and stone. What will you write?
Ķurmrags Lighthouse
The sound of the waves and the crunch of sand underfoot make the kilometers fly by. Soon, the landscape ahead seems to change—an expanse of rocks replaces the sandy shoreline. At first glance, it looks like the beach has ended, but a closer look reveals a path forward, winding through the rocks.
As you carefully make your way across, Ķurmrags Lighthouse comes into view. It’s not the towering beacon you might expect; instead, it stands in the water, a lone metal pole weathered by the elements.
Here’s the story: it used to be a proper lighthouse, standing proudly on the shore. Then, two hurricanes swept through. The first brought destruction; the second carried what remained into the sea. And there it stays, a marker of nature’s power and the passage of time.
You pause here, soaking in the moment. Six kilometers behind us, the coastline stretches back toward Tūja. It’s a solid walk, we could call it a day here — but something nudges us to move forward.
The map shows the Ežurgu Cliffs are just over a kilometer ahead. Let’s try to find them.
End of Our Baltic Coastal Hiking Trip: Did We Find the Ežurgu Cliffs?
Honestly, I’m still unsure
As we continue our walk along the rocky coastline, the landscape grows wilder with each step.
Soon, patches of orange catch our eyes in the distance. Could these be the Ežurgu Cliffs we’ve been searching for? The thought injects fresh energy into our steps, and we quicken our pace toward the enticing sight.
When we finally reach the formations, we’re greeted by small cliffs etched with intricate grooves and ridges. They’re undeniably beautiful—a natural sculpture shaped by the hands of time and tide. But something feels… off. These don’t match the grandeur of the iconic cliffs captured in countless photos online. Uncertainty settles in.
Could it be that Vidzeme’s rocky coastline holds more than one hidden treasure, with the true Ežurgu Cliffs waiting just a little farther ahead? Determined to find out, we push onward.
The trail becomes a rugged adventure, leading us to a wild stretch of shoreline where stones have tumbled into a chaotic yet mesmerizing obstacle course. Here, the rocks demand more than just footsteps; they call for careful navigation—balancing, climbing, and maneuvering through nature’s stony labyrinth. It’s an adventure, no doubt, but before plunging into the challenge, I pull out the map for guidance.
And there it is, clear as the day: the Ežurgu Cliffs are already behind us.
So, were those earlier formations the cliffs we set out to find? I can’t say for sure. Was this a case of clever marketing, or did we simply overlook the signs? Perhaps one day, someone will shine some light on this.
With our car waiting back in Ķurmragas and the next highlight—the Veczemju Cliffs—still several kilometers away, this feels like a fitting place to turn back.
For those willing to venture farther, let me assure you: the Veczemju Cliffs are beautiful and more impressive than the rock formations we just saw. If you’ve got the stamina, they’re well worth the extra trek.
Swimming Along Vidzeme’s Rocky Coastline
After trekking for kilometers under the warm sun, cooling off in the water sounds like the perfect idea.
But as it turns out, swimming along Vidzeme’s rocky coastline isn’t as simple as it might seem. Why? You guessed it—rocks. They’re everywhere. It’s a classic case of beauty with a price.
While these rocks are stunning to look at, they’re less friendly beneath the waves. Submerged stones are often slippery, and many like to play hide-and-seek beneath the sandy seabed, posing a challenge for your toes. To add to the difficulty, this stretch of coast often sees strong waves that can tug you into deeper waters.
The takeaway? Unless you’re confident in your swimming skills and the conditions, it’s best not to take unnecessary risks.
What are your thoughts?
In the past, I always felt the need to include something grand in every hiking route—a castle, a cave, a waterfall, or some other marvel. I worried that without these highlights, my companions might lose interest.
But Vidzeme’s rocky coastline taught me an important lesson: grandeur isn’t always necessary. Sometimes, all you need is the beauty of nature, good company, and the crisp freshness of the open air.
What You Need to Know About Baltic Coastal Hiking Trip Along Vidzeme Rocky Seashore in Latvia
Suggested Routes for Baltic Coastal Hiking Trip
Tūja – Ķurmragas: ~5.7 km one way (if measured in Google).
Tūja – Ķurmragas – Ežurgu Cliffs – Ķurmragas: ~7.8 km one way (if measured in Google).
Tūja – Veczemju Cliffs: ~10.5 km one way (if measured in Google).
On our Baltic coastal hiking trip along Vidzeme seashore, we covered the route Car (in Tuja) – Tūja Pier – Ķurmragas – Ežurgu Cliffs – Ķurmragas – back to the other car (by Kurmjrags), totaling 10.55 km (measured by a fitness watch). About 8 of these kilometers were along the beach.
Facilities and Amenities on Tūja – Ķurmrags hike
Well-maintained changing rooms and restrooms are available at the starting point near Tūja Pier. If you forget to pack drinks or snacks, there’s also a small shop in Tūja.
Accessibility of Vidzeme Rocky Seashore Hike
The route is sandy, making it unsuitable for wheelchairs or strollers. The first section is less rocky, but around Ķurmragas and beyond, the rocks become more frequent. Some sections require climbing over rocks, which might be challenging for some hikers.
A visit to Kuldīga is a timeless classic. Many of us cherish fond memories of walking barefoot across the Ventas Rumba or watching the mesmerizing dance of flying fish. But what lies beyond the charming cobbled streets of the old town and the iconic photogenic bridge? This time, let’s take a step further and board a time machine at the Kuldīga Museum. Our destination? The apartment of a wealthy Kuldīga resident from the early 20th century.
Every adventure is as exciting as the attitude you bring to it. At the Kuldīga Museum, you can climb the stairs to the second floor—or make it more fun by turning it into a scavenger hunt: search for fragments of the original paintwork hidden on the beautifully restored walls.
If you’re up for the challenge, I’ve got a few more tasks for you during your visit.
Getting to Know the Kuldīga Museum
Let’s start with the basics. The Kuldīga Museum is actually spread across two buildings. The main museum, a historic villa located near the Ventas Rumba, is an elegant moss-green structure with decorative wooden paneling—hard to miss.
The second building houses the museum’s archives, an impressive collection of historical artifacts. While our visit focuses on the part of Kuldiga museum that’s in the manor this time, the archives are definitely worth exploring on another occasion.
Temporary Exhibit Space in Kuldīga Museum
Upon arrival, friendly staff greet visitors with a warm welcome and a helpful tip: the exhibitions on the first and third floors change periodically. This means that what is here today—a mirror collection and a photography exhibition—may differ from what you’ll encounter the next time you come here. To check what’s on display in Kuldīga museum at a time of your visit, check their website.
While I won’t delve too deeply into the temporary exhibits—after all, they are fleeting—let’s take a brief glimpse to savor the museum’s distinctive charm.
Take a guess: what are the stars of the mirror exhibition? Ornamental hand mirrors, of course! Decorated with floral motifs, intricate patterns, baby faces, and scenic landscapes, each piece is a tiny masterpiece. As we pause to reflect, it’s fascinating to consider how these once-essential items, tucked into every handbag, have been largely replaced by the ever-present smartphone screen in our modern lives.
These hand mirrors are a nostalgic tribute to a bygone era when beauty and practicality seamlessly intertwined, encapsulated in exquisite artistry.
Knocking on History’s Door: A Wealthy Kuldīga Resident’s Apartment
The permanent exhibit on the second floor of the Kuldīga Museum offers a delightful surprise—it feels like stepping into someone’s elegant home. The immersive atmosphere makes you half-expect a maid to appear from the next room, announcing that the lady of the house is waiting in her study.
Every corner of this recreated apartment exudes warmth and character. From the carefully chosen furniture to the crocheted tablecloths and elegant curtains, you can sense the attention to detail. Unlike the often cold and impersonal feel of grand palaces, this space feels cozy and livable. Well, perhaps except for the ghost that occasionally plays the piano…
Everyone Deserves a Study Like This!
Stepping into the study feels like uncovering a hidden gem. Can you imagine working in a room with a view like this? The large window offers a breathtaking panorama of Ventas Rumba, where fish can be seen leaping elegantly against the current. As one of my friends once remarked: this is the type of a workplace that inspires poetry.
But turns out that the lady of the house was more inclined to discuss the latest trends in fashion than penning verses.
Have You Forgotten About the Challenges I Promised?
Let’s continue our journey—after all, no mansion is complete without its luxurious extras! One standout feature here is the winter garden—a bright, sunny room dedicated to houseplants and art. It’s the kind of space I’d love to have myself! Here, your first challenge awaits: can you decipher what’s written in the old-fashioned print?
After catching up on the Kuldīga news, let’s take a look into the gentleman’s study, where a fascinating collection of playing cards catches the eye. Have you ever seen black playing cards before? Since it seems like no one’s home today, let’s take the opportunity to sneak a peek at the heart of the house—the kitchen.
The kitchen is always my favorite room in museums like this, as it offers a tangible glimpse into how far we’ve come since that era. The stove is quite different, with metal rings instead of modern burners, and the “coffee machine” certainly wasn’t automatic—you had to grind the coffee manually.
Now, here’s your next challenge: can you figure out what this unusual object is?
I won’t spoil the surprise—you’ll have to visit the Kuldīga Museum to find out!
One Last Quest on the Third Floor
After exploring the apartment, I have one final task for you. Somewhere on the third floor, you’ll find a room with its original, unrestored paintwork still intact. Here’s a hint: this room exudes a raw, romantic charm, telling a story of how time fades and frays surfaces but can never erase their essence. Your challenge is to find this room.
And while you’re there, take the time to explore the third-floor exhibits and reflect on which moment or detail of Kuldīga museum resonated with you the most.
Thoughts?
The Kuldīga Museum masterfully creates the sensation of traveling through time. If you’re captivated by experiences like this, be sure to include it in your itinerary on your next trip to Kurzeme.
How much time should you set aside for the Kuldīga Museum? For me it took about 40 minutes. But I am lazy when it comes to reading descriptions. So, if you’re someone who enjoys diving deep into details, plan for a bit longer.
Is there an entrance fee? Yes, there is. You can find the pricing details on the museum’s website.
Can you visit without a car? Absolutely! The museum is centrally located in Kuldīga, so if you can reach the town, the museum is just a short walk away.
Are you looking for hidden gems along the Latvian seaside? Let me tell you about a picturesque spot that has remained off most tourists’ radar. If your journey takes you toward Engure or further along the coast to Kolka, be sure to plan an extra stop at a relique of fishermans heritage: Ragaciems Sedums.
Here’s a fun little quiz: do you know what “sedums” is? I didn’t either—until recently.
A sedums is an old fishermen’s wharf—a resting place for boats after a long day at sea. But it was also much more than just a place where fishing tools were stored: in the past these stations served as vibrant social hubs where coastal communities came together for various activities. Now we both know!
I stumbled upon Ragaciems Sedums entirely by chance while participating in a Women’s Day rally. We were hunting for a treasure chest and found something even better: a breathtakingly quaint corner of the world by the sea, reminiscent of a miniature open-air museum. Except this isn’t a museum replica—it’s the real deal. As I later learned, the locals themselves restored the old fishing boats station to honor their ancestors. To me, that makes this place extra special.
What to Expect at Ragaciems Fishermen’s Wharf
Like a siren of the sea, Ragaciema Sedums beckons with its beauty. Who can resist the call of a spot that seems designed for dreamy photos?
Picture this: in the background, the tranquil sea stretches out, adorned with the pastel hues of spring. Closer to the shore, nestled among pine trees, sits a cluster of charming wooden huts with reed-thatched roofs. At first glance, the scene might seem almost ordinary.
But look closer! Each hut is adorned with intricate, whimsical details. One has a string of colorful fishing buoys draped along its wall like Christmas garlands. Another features a carved wooden plaque above its door, with a weathered wooden ring and an antique clock perched atop.
Adding to the nostalgic atmosphere are old wooden boats—one that seems more like a skeleton of its former self and others that look ready to take to the sea again. Scattered throughout the area are wooden barrels and triangular drying racks, the kind you might recognize from maritime museums but can’t quite remember the name of.
Spending a few moments here feels like traveling back in time.
Of course, this place is not just a photo spot. I bet there is a lot of fascinating stories hidden here, if only there was someone around to tell them.
Thoughts?
The Ragciems Fishermen`s wharf itself is rather small and doesn’t demand much time to explore. It’s not quite enough to be the sole destination for a day trip. So my advice is to plan the visit as a brief stop during a longer journey or combine it with a refreshing seaside walk.
But on a deeper note – Ragaciems Sedums leaves me pondering two questions: What are we doing to preserve the legacy of our ancestors? And how many more hidden treasures like this are waiting to be discovered in Latvia?
Combine Trip to Ragaciema Sedums With These Places
What better time than summer for a getaway? Let’s head to Valmiera – a charming city that calls the picturesque Gauja River its “main street.” Valmiera is also home to vibrant Art Benches scattered across the landscape, and hidden in the heart of the city, a portal to the enchanting dreamland of Neonija awaits. But that’s just the beginning – a short drive away, the long-awaited Skaņākalns Nature Park beckons, filled with everything from towering cliffs to whimsical wooden sculptures. Sounds like the perfect summer escape, right?
So grab your picnic basket, pack your sense of adventure, and let’s go figure out what to see in Valmiera!
Skaņākalns Nature Park has certainly hit the jackpot in terms of natural wonders. Just like a summer meadow, dotted with wildflowers, this park is brimming with diverse and fascinating sights to explore.
Do you love cliffs? Skaņākalns features three distinct ones: the cliff with Angel’s Cave, where you can spot a stylized silhouette of an angel; the Carnation Cliffs, which are best admired from a distance; and, of course, the towering Skaņākalns cliff – a massive stone wall.
Are you a fan of caves? The park’s nature trail includes the Devil’s Cave – large enough to enter and dark enough to require a flashlight.
Perhaps you’re more drawn to wooden sculptures? As you wander the trail, you’ll encounter everything from gnomes and birds to a witch flying with a propeller instead of a broom.
There’s so much to discover, I had to write a separate adventure story with detailed descriptions of all the Skaņākalns attractions.
But now, let’s head to the city to find out what to see in Valmiera itself. After all that walking, it’s only natural to work up an appetite, so our first stop should be dinner.
Where to Eat in Valmiera? Italy Vibes at Vīnkalnu Pizzeria
What does it take to feel like you’re in Italy? A freshly baked pizza with a thick, rustic crust that’s not quite perfectly round, paired with a glass of Aperol Spritz (or a virgin spritz for those who don’t drink).
While everyone’s taste buds are different, I can confidently say that the pizza at Vīnkalnu is absolutely delicious. The atmosphere is just as charming – the pizzeria is housed in a historic building, and its terrace is adorned with twinkling lights and vibrant flowers. And, of course, the service is top-notch. To top it all off, when the bill arrives, you’re treated to a couple of small candies – it’s the little touches that make the experience unforgettable!
Since the castle ruins are conveniently just a short walk from Vīnkalnu Pizzeria, it only makes sense to pay them a visit. I had somehow expected a solitary stone wall – perhaps because of the photos I’d seen? Well, there is a wall, but that’s not all.
In fact, there’s also a small section of the foundation that’s been uncovered, allowing you to walk around it and explore informative displays along the way.
Day 2 of Valmiera trip: What to See in Valmiera?
Start Your Exploration of Valmiera at Dzirnavu Lake
Let’s stretch our legs and snap a few beautiful photos!
Nestled at the heart of the park lies a picturesque lake, its shores shaded by trees and adorned with water lilies. In the center, a playful fountain captivates attention – it begins small, gradually grows larger, then shrinks back down, continuing its little game. It never seems to tire, and it’s easy to lose track of time as you leisurely wander around the lake, chatting with your companions.
The only thing that might catch your eye away from the water is the environmental art scattered throughout the area. What’s that? A sundial!
And over there, in the distance – could it be another meditation labyrinth? There’s no description, but it looks strikingly similar to the ones I’ve encountered on the Kubeseles nature trail and at Valgums world. What do you think?
If you’re unfamiliar with meditation labyrinths and happen to encounter one in Valmiera for the first time, let me explain: these winding paths are designed to help clear your mind. The goal isn’t to rush to the center but to simply follow the winding path and let your thoughts drift away. Much like life itself, the timing is a mystery – you never know when you’ll reach the center. The key isn’t to focus on the destination, but to embrace the journey and let your mind unwind as you go.
What to See in Valmiera for Gardening Enthusiasts: The Secret Herb Garden at the Valmiera Museum
There’s something magical about discovering unexpected gems during your travels.
As we make our way toward the Gauja River, a charming green building catches our eye. It’s the kind of place you can’t help but photograph, simply because it’s so visually appealing. The courtyard is just as inviting, adorned with twinkling string lights and well-maintained flower beds. But what’s that? A QR code on the gate?
The audio guide reveals that this building is the “Laundry House,” and hidden within its courtyard is a lovely herb and medicinal plant garden, welcoming all who are curious to explore.
The plant beds are arranged in a neat checkerboard pattern, turning it into a fun game of “How many can you recognize?” I spotted basil and dill—how many can you name?
If you’re struggling – don’t worry. Informative signs around the garden provide the names of the various plants. Whether you’re a plant expert or just looking to enjoy a peaceful moment, it’s a delightful stop.
A Must See in Valmiera: Exploring the City on the Gauja Tram
If you had to pick just one thing to do in Valmiera, make it a ride on the Gauja Tram.
Why, you ask?
Though the ride on this quaint little boat is short, it offers stunning views of the Gauja Riverbanks, and a wealth of fascinating stories. You’ll learn how Valmiera got its unique name (hint: it has to do with whales!), hear about the Valmiera Water Tower’s turbulent past, and uncover other intriguing facts about this charming city.
Along the way, you’ll get a close-up view of the Kazu Rapids and pass under a bridge. Here’s a fun fact: you can make a wish not just the first time you cross the bridge, but also the first time you glide beneath it!
And don’t miss one of the ride’s most charming sights: the colorful Art Benches that line the riverbank. These aren’t just benches – they’re artistic creations brought to life by local artists, turning everyday seating into extraordinary works of creativity.
It’s a lovely, relaxing ride – but just as you start to unwind, the rain begins to fall. No worries though – it’s the perfect reason to check out some of Valmiera’s indoor attractions!
Valmiera’s Portal to Another Dimension – The Neonija Art Gallery
Have you ever dreamed of stepping into another world, even if just for a moment? In Valmiera, you can do just that, by entering the doors of a portal to a dreamland called Neonija. It’s a place where flowers bloom in radiant neon hues, neon butterflies flutter around, and worries seem light years away.
Let’s step inside!
You’re greeted by darkness, peaceful music, and the calming sound of flowing water—almost like the serene visualization in a guided meditation session (if you’ve ever tried those).
In this parallel world, the sun doesn’t shine, but mysterious light glows from every seashell, every thread. The magic is definitely in the details. Each room brings a unique experience. In one, little birds play in a birdbath with a neon fountain. In another, tiny glowing dots float above, reminiscent of stars in the night sky. In yet another, you find yourself walking above a vast universe, and then suddenly you’re in an underwater kingdom, only to be transported moments later to an ancient, mystical building.
It’s a rollercoaster of experiences—in the very best sense of the word.
With that our list of what to see in Valmiera comes to an end. Before heading home, we stop at a cozy café for a quick bite. Suddenly, we overhear a lady at the table next to us commenting, “Nobody goes to Valmiera for a weekend trip…”
But we beg to differ. We came, and it was wonderful! From the beauty of the Gauja River to the art and peaceful surroundings, every moment was truly memorable. And let’s not forget the nearby Skaņākalns Nature Park—it’s definitely worth a visit.
What stories do the Baldone Story Trails have to tell? Well, they proudly speak of Baldone’s famous swamps and sulfur springs, whisper about forests that conceal hidden artwork and an observatory. And, of course, they call out from the top of the Riekstu Hill observation tower.
Continuing our series of day trips from Riga, easily accessible by public transport, today we’re heading to Baldone to explore its scenic trails and fascinating landmarks.
Decisions, Decisions: Which of the Baldone Story Trail Routes Should You Take?
Now, I’m not exactly a military history buff, so the “Military Heritage” route was immediately scratched off my list (I’ll have to leave that story for someone else). But the Small Loop, Mercendarbe Trail, and Riekstu Hill Trail are all part of the Baldone Story Trails’ Grand Loop. So, hold your horses—before you make your decision, let me take you on a virtual tour. By the end, I’m sure you’ll be able to figure out whether you prefer the “mother,” the “daughter,” or the “dress.”
The Grand Loop of the Baldone Story Trails
The “proper” way to begin would be from the first stop near the Baldone Sports Complex, but since I always seem to mix things up with directions, let’s write our own story and start at the (officially) second stop of the trail.
Baldone’s Pride and Joy– The Lizard Sulfur Spring (and Friends)
Part of the: Baldone story trails Big loop and Small loop
Let’s head to Lilac Park to say hi to the Lizard – a statue, or perhaps more accurately, a fountain, from which Baldone’s famed sulfur water gently flows.
At first, you might not notice any smell, but dip your hand in and… oh my, that unmistakable old egg aroma makes its presence known!
While we’re taking in the sights, a local wanders over to fill a bottle and to share some insider tips about Baldone. Your hiking Baldone storytrails? When you get to the swamp, stick to the trail. It’s full of hidden sinkholes. Oh, and did you know there’s now a 5G tower on the shop roof? Plus, we get to know that Baldone is apparently home to some very friendly cats. Local wisdom collected – check!
But the Lizard isn’t alone in this park. You’ll also find its charming companions: the Squirrel, proudly featured on Baldone’s coat of arms, and Saint Māra, the guardian of these healing waters.
Now then, are you ready to embark on a 20-kilometer adventure through Baldone’s enchanting forests?
Wait, just one more thing before we get going…
No Need to Make Up Stories – Free Audio Guide Got You Covered
The Baldone Story Trails come with a free audio guide to bring the journey to life.
Excited, you whip out our smartphones, scan the QR code, and… drumroll… nothing! No recording, no map, no support. What now? Is the audio guide just a myth?
Not so fast! This is one of those moments where persistence pays off. A quick glance at the nearby information stand reveals another QR code. We scan it, and voilà! The audio guide springs to life, offering fascinating tidbits about each stop along the trail, plus a detailed map to keep us on track. Crisis averted!
Finally, we’re ready to set off.
The red footprints lead us first along the main road, where we can admire Baldone’s charming wooden architecture. But soon, they guide us into the enchanting forests, where the real magic of the journey begins.
Mud Swamp – Baldone’s First Mud Deposit
Part of the: Baldone story trails Big loop, Small loop and Mercendarbes trail
After a short walk, a small detour invites us to explore the swamp. Ahead, patches of water gleam through the dense forest, with trees appearing to sink into the dark, tranquil pools.
But that’s where the path ends – a dead end. We were warned not to stray off the trail in the swamp, but where exactly could one wander off to here? Certainly not into the water! That would be far from wise.
We turn around and resume our journey along the main trail, soon reaching a crossroads. Should we follow the blue footprints along the Small Loop, or take the red ones on the Grand Loop?
As promised, we’re sticking with the Grand Loop of Baldone’s Story Trails to soak in as much of the town’s beauty as we can. Let’s go!
Mercendarbe Manor Picnic Spot
Part of the: Baldone story trails Big loop and Mercendarbes trail
After a solid stretch of the trail, it’s time to give our legs a break and enjoy the snack I’ve packed for the hike. It seems we’re not the only ones with this idea! Just ahead, near Mercendarbe Manor, there’s a perfect picnic spot waiting. Two inviting tables with chairs offer a cozy spot to relax. On one side, the soothing croak of frogs rises from a tranquil pond, while on the other, the elegant manor house stands proudly—now home to the Baldone Museum.
With our hunger satisfied and spirits lifted, we’re ready to hit the trail again. The path ahead winds through a beautiful, tree-lined avenue, leading us toward our next stop—something serene, peaceful, and utterly captivating awaits!
The Picturesque Lilac Lake
Part of the: Baldone story trails Big loop
The tranquil waters of the lake mirror the trees on the opposite shore, creating a scene so perfect it could be straight out of a painting.
Naturally, the iconic Instagram-worthy dock is packed with visitors. Though one end is slightly submerged, and you might need to get your sneakers wet to reach it, it doesn’t seem to faze the avid photographers eager to snap the perfect shot.
PS: For those who missed the picnic spot at Mercendarbe Manor, here’s your second chance. But be warned—the competition for the tables here is a little fiercer!
Baldone Observatory
Part of the big loop of Baldone story trail and Riekstu kalns trail
The Baldone Observatory is nestled discreetly in the forest, hidden among the trees like a shy puffball mushroom.
Although we can’t step inside (visits must be booked in advance), knowing that it houses the largest telescope in the Baltics instantly gives the building a sense of grandeur and importance.
For those itching to see what it looks like inside, you’re in luck! A 3D virtual tour is available at baldonesobservatorija.lv.
From the Riekstu Hill Observation Tower in Baldone, You Can See All the Way to Riga!
Part of the: Baldone story trails Big loop and Riekstu kalns trail
If I were to ask you now, “Which direction is Riga?” could you point it out?
Don’t worry—once we climb the tower, you’ll know! Amid the panoramic views of treetops, you’ll spot the unmistakable silhouette of the Riga TV Tower and the outlines of the city’s buildings in the distance.
No Straying from the Path in Baldone’s Pladu Swamp!
Part of the: Baldone story trails Big loop and Riekstu kalns trail
Our journey now brings us to the swamp, where a murky, overgrown, river-like waterway meanders through the wild landscape. To navigate it, we step onto the wooden boardwalk that winds through this serene, yet untamed, environment. Ah, so this is the notorious swamp we were warned about—not a single step off the path!
Walking along, it’s clear that someone couldn’t resist temptation. Just beside the trail, a deep, boot-shaped hole in the muck tells the story of a daring (or unlucky) adventurer. Thankfully, it’s only the size of one boot, suggesting they escaped with just a muddy reminder of why the warning exists.
Take the advice seriously, stay on the path, and soak in the raw beauty of the swamp—safely!
Where’s the Baldone Story Trails Devil’s Stone?
(Unofficially?) part of the: Baldone story trails Big loop and Riekstu kalns trail
Further along the trail, there’s a sign pointing to the Velnakmens (Devil’s Stone) site. But wait—where’s the actual stone?
Spoiler alert: it’s not here. (Shrugs.) The infamous Devil’s Stone was blown to bits long ago, leaving behind nothing but a large hollow where it once stood.
Now, whether a place that once had something noteworthy but now doesn’t still qualifies as a sight worth visiting is up for debate. But hey, without that sign, I would never have known the Devil’s Stone had ever been here at all.
See the Places You visited in New Colors at Baldone’s Forest Gallery
(Unofficially?) part of the: Baldone story trails Big loop and Riekstu kalns trail
Ready to enjoy a touch of art?
There are some places that seem modest at first glance but keep surprising you the further you go. The Forest Gallery is one of them. As you step into this artistic hideaway, you’ll spot a few paintings tucked among the trees.
There’s one with tiny holes telling a story about the sky, another featuring a deer adorned with the four seasons… But as you continue, you’ll discover there are far more paintings than you first expected—hidden among the trees, just around the bends of the path.
The artwork spans a variety of styles, but soon you’ll notice a unifying thread: each piece portrays a scene from Baldone that you’ve likely already explored. The ski hill, Liliju Lake, Baldone’s forests—they’re all here, reimagined through the artist’s eyes.
It’s a beautiful and unexpected way to relive your journey through these trails.
Baldone Story Trails End by the White Palace
Part of the: Baldone story trails Big loop and Small loop
How fancy would it be to attend school in a palace?
As the cherry on top of our journey, we arrive at the charmingly petite yet elegant White Palace, now home to a music school.
Looking at the bright white walls and fairytale-like turrets, it’s hard to believe this lovely building has seen such somber days—serving as a wartime hospital and later a children’s shelter.
Somewhere nearby, there’s supposed to be a replica of the historic Horse Tram, but I can’t see it. So I guess we’ll have to skip it this time.
Baldone’s St. Michael’s Church and Cultural Center
Part of the: Baldone story trails Big loop and Small loop
I lied—the White Palace isn’t our final stop on our adventure. A few more fascinating buildings await!
One of them is the picturesque, golden-yellow St. Michael’s Church, standing gracefully amidst the serene surroundings.
Another is the intriguingly quirky Baldone Cultural Center. At first glance, one may only notice the bold “Cinema Baldone” sign across the façade. But if you look closer you may realise the upper part of the building is adorned with stylized cow skulls. A rather eccentric design choice, wouldn’t you say?
And with that, our stroll truly comes to an end. Until next time, Baldone!
So, did you figure out which Baldone Story Trail route suits you best?
Here’s my advice in a nutshell:
If you’re up for a good, long walk and can appreciate the natural beauty of forests, lakes, and swamps, the Grand Loop might just be your perfect match.
But if you’re more drawn to man-made landmarks, Instagram-worthy spots, or prefer a shorter distance, then the Small Loop or Riekstu Hill Trail could be just the ticket.
Whichever you choose, Baldone’s trails promise a story worth exploring!
If you have a passion for exploring caves and cliffs, Līgatne is the perfect road trip destination for you. This charming Latvian town is home to a unique array of sandstone cellars and rocky formations, each with its own character. Some resemble prison cells, others are locked behind doors adorned with mystical symbols, while a few might make you feel like you’ve stepped into a scene from a horror movie.
And, because Līgatne is a popular hiking spot in Latvia, stay till the end to hear my guide on how NOT to hike in Līgatne Latvia.
Let’s break the rules and start with the dessert—arguably the most spectacular attraction in Līgatne, Latvia: Lustūzis.
Just like onions and ogres, Lustūzis has layers. At ground level, a viewing platform awaits, perfect for snapping photos with Lustūzis’ orange cliff face as your backdrop.
But don’t get too comfortable—this is just the appetiser. Lustūzis is a labyrinth of paths and caves, each hiding its own secrets.
Peek into the first cave, and you find a long tunnel. At the far end, candles flicker, casting eerie shadows on the walls. Walking through feels a bit like stepping into a horror movie. Look, the tunnel is lined with closed doors! What’s hidden behind the locks? Could it be something mundane like potatoes? Or maybe… something darker?
Wait—this one door is open! But it is way too dark to see what’s inside. Good that the phones come with flashlights these days! You shine a light and discover a bat snoozing peacefully. Shh! Let’s tiptoe out , so we don’t disturb its slumber.
Other caves that line the cliff remain locked, each more mysterious than the last. One door is covered in mystical symbols, while another is decorated with paintings of farm tools. I am dying to know what’s inside, but it seems that it’s not in the cards for us today.
And then there are the smaller caves, like snug alcoves carved into the uneven rock face. These niches are covered in countless scratches—an ancient graffiti of sorts. Try your hand at decoding them; see if you can spot the oldest mark.
Each scratch has a story, but let’s make a pact: we’ll leave the cliffs just as we found them, no scratching! Līgatne’s cliffs have been storytellers for centuries, and they deserve our care.
Next, we follow the walls lined with three roots and decorated with icicles to the second level of Lustūzis. Here, we find a door marked “Ghost Cave.” Spooky, isn’t it? Sadly—or maybe luckily—it’s locked tight. Whatever phantoms haunt this place will have to stay hidden a while longer.
Lastly, one last challenge awaits us in Lustūzis—a set of stairs leading to the summit. I am always looking out for observation decks and something tells me we might find one up here. We make the climb, and there it is: an observation deck with sweeping views of Līgatne turned into a winter wonderland.
But I’ll let you in on a little secret: this won’t be the last lookout in Līgatne we conquer today. Stay sharp—there’s more magic ahead.
The Ānfabrikas Cliff of Līgatne and the Path to Rīga Hill
Next on our itinerary is the Ānfabrikas Cliff. How does this rock formation differ from Lustūzis? Let’s find out.
Here, a towering cliff looms on the far side of a frozen river. Its surface is dotted with numerous doors, peering back at us like dark, watchful eyes. What lies hidden within the cliff’s mysterious chambers? We can only guess, as the icy waters deny us any chance to cross and explore. Līgatne keeps its secrets well. But according to sources all of Līgatnes caves were made to act as natural fridges keeping products and wine cool.
Where shall we go next? A staircase leads upwards, inviting us to explore further.
If you climb to the very top you’ll find another breathtaking observation platform.
As we continue along the path, we pass by cave after cave, each with its own distinct personality. Most are small and stark, like prison cells, their walls weathered by time. Then, one catches your eye—a cave with a hole on the other side.
Further along, another cave surprises with a unique ceiling, decorated with intricate patterns and textures—nature’s artwork at its finest.
And then there’s a cave within a cave. When you lean down to peer inside, you’ll see a small tunnel leading into a larger room beyond.
And of course, what would a Līgatne adventure be without a horror movie worthy cave? It is a bit unsettling not knowing if something would jump out of the dark shadows or grab your leg from the depths of the side chamber. But luckily for us, there is only another tiny bat sleeping peacefully.
If you’re not a seasoned hiker, this is where I’d recommend calling it a day and heading back to the Līgatne city centre. As this is where the mishap story begins.
How Not to Hike in Līgatne: A Funny Tale of Two Travellers Without a Map
Our mission is simple: follow a scenic route along the Līgatne River to reach Jumprava Cliff. However, as we plot our course on Google Maps, we quickly realize there are no trails listed along the river. A bit concerning, but we’re adventurers—surely we can wing it, right?
We set off strong, wandering past charming industrial heritage buildings and we reach the Līgatne Paper Mill. But here we hit a dead end. A tall fence blocks our path, and a sign reads: access permitted only with a guide.
So, what now? I’m not the type to break the rules, so our only option is to go around. But which direction? Since the cliff lies on the left bank of the river, it makes sense to veer left and rejoin the river once we’re past the paper mill.
As we walk, we pass some interesting historic buildings, the standout being the beautifully renovated kindergarten. But, as we keep moving, we find ourselves so far off track that the river is nowhere in sight. What started as a nature hike is now a city stroll, which after considerable distance turns into a forest.
With the snow covering everything, it’s hard to tell if there’s a proper pedestrian path along the route. All I know is that the only option seems to be walking beside the road, which, if I’m being honest, makes me a bit uneasy. But hey, they say persistence pays off, right? I’m determined to reach Jumprava Cliff, no matter the detour.
It turns out that Jumprava Cliff has a knack for hiding. When we arrive at the pin on the map, we find an observation deck offering gorgeous views of the Gauja River, but… where’s the cliff?
I look around, confused. Nothing. Oh wait—could we actually be standing on the cliff? It seems like the only way to see it would be from the opposite bank or maybe by boat on the river itself.
A bit disappointing, but it happens to the best of us. We hang around for a few more minutes, scanning for any hidden paths down that we might have missed, but after some fruitless searching, we admit defeat. No sight of Līgatne’s Jumprava Cliff today.
Since our original goal was to follow the river, we decide to follow it on our way back. The map suggests we can reunite with the river near Līgatnes Pārceltuve (the thing that takes cars across the river). So let’s head there!
Celler Caves Somewhere Near Līgatne River
As I said – sometimes you win and sometimes you lose.
We follow a path well beaten by other travellers’ feet and not too deep in the forest a surprise awaits. There is another cliff with cellar caves! I don’t know its name, so I just refer to them as the cliffs by the river as some of them are yet again on the opposite side of the river.
Or we could call them hobbit houses, as that’s what they remind me of. You can take a peak in some of them, but they seem abandoned, with no treasures inside.
Let’s Return to How Not to Hike, Shall We?
Well, when you’re not sure where to go next, what do you do? Simple—ask a local. So, we spot an older lady strolling down the path and decide to ask for directions.
“Where does this path lead?” “To the forest.” Okay.
“But if we follow this path, will it take us to the Līgatne city centre?” She gives us a long look. “YOU won’t make it. Go back to the main road and follow that.”
Ouch. That stings. My ego is definitely bruised, but hey, when in doubt, take the advice, right? So we start to retrace our steps back to the main road, the very same one we used to get here.
But as we walk, another tempting detour presents itself—a smaller path veering off to the side. I really don’t want to go back the same way we just came from, so I make an executive decision to take one last gamble.
We venture on for a while. The path starts to get narrower and less well-trodden, not exactly a reassuring sign. Maybe we should have listened to the wise old lady…
Just when we’re about to turn back, a girl walking her adorable cat comes into view. Yes, you read that right—a cat, not a dog. How cute is that?
She kindly asks if we’re lost. Well, kind of. Turns out, in about 800 meters, the path will end and we’ll hit a restricted area. Our only options are to turn back or follow some footprints leading up the hill. Those, she assures us, will take us to the main route.
What a lucky encounter! I never would’ve thought to climb up.
We follow the footprints and some cute little cat paw prints, and after a bit of an uphill trek, we emerge from the forest near a campsite. We are saved!
So what went wrong?
Firstly if you do not know the way, follow the guidance otherwise you could be putting yourself in danger. Secondly, as I now inspect the map closer I think we should have turned right at the paper factory and crossed the bridge to the right bank of the river. Thirdly – if Google maps doesn’t work, how about finding a gpx map or an off road map?
At least I am wiser now. And hopefully you are too.
But the cellar caves and cliffs of Ligatne Latvia were sure fun to explore. So this day trip in Latvia was still enjoyable even with all the mishaps.
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