Latvians love bog trails. They are a classic choice for dates, family hikes, and walks with friends. Just as I thought I had explored all the bog trails near Riga, a new one emerged. Yay! Now, we have the opportunity to explore the somewhat wild “selfie” trail in Medems Bog. So, armed with hiking shoes and insect repellent, let’s get closer to nature and discover what makes this bog trail unique.
First Part of Medems Bog Trail. Here’s a Challenge for You – Find the Trail
How does one get lost between three pine trees? Quite simply, by not following the signs.
We parked the car at the start of the trail. Although the Medems Trail is well-maintained, there’s no designated parking area, so we had to leave the car by the roadside (in an area without prohibition signs, of course). But for adventure seekers, this is not an obstacle, right?
When I mentioned we were going to a bog trail, you probably didn’t expect a walk through the forest. At least I didn’t. But it turns out that at the beginning of Medems Bog trail, you have to walk on a dirt road through a beautiful, quiet forest for a while.
We walked. And walked. And walked. By some point, it started to feel suspicious. Then the road ahead ended to what looked like a potato field. Clearly, we made a wrong turn. So we headed back. Then we saw some people ahead. They will surely tell us where to go. Until suddenly, the people disappeared.
What? It turns out that somewhere halfway, the road branches off, and instead of continuing straight as we did, you have to take the road that leads to the left. As a kind family we met along the way explained, there are painted signs on the trees indicating the correct path. Keep this in mind so you don’t miss it.
It’s a Selfie Kingdom
In my mind, the trail truly begins where the first bridge appears, revealing the unique charm of the Medema Bog Trail.
This bog trail is different from others because it features mirrors. They are strategically placed on the Medema bog bridges, benches, and information boards. A selfie addict’s dream! Finally, you no longer need to ask a passerby to take a photo of you and your friends.
But in all seriousness, these mirrors beautifully reflect the surrounding sights and enhance the landscape. Greetings from my reflection!
Second Part of Medems Bog Trail – (Almost) Untouched Nature
Further along, the Medems Bog landscape changes – it becomes wilder. The paths become narrower and bumpier. The road gets muddier. The trees grow closer, and in your peripheral vision, you can observe water puddles along the sides of the trail. Some are murky like bog water, others clearer, like in a lake.
Although such conditions require an adventurer’s spirit, I find this part of the trail, which feels less touched by human hands, intriguing. It’s something entirely different from city streets. How do you like this scenery?
Third Part of Medema Bog Trail – The Well-Maintained Bog Boardwalk from the Marketing Pictures
A bog trail must also have a bog boardwalk, right? It does! The next section of the trail is a wooden boardwalk that splits the field in half.
Although it may not sound so appealing, the scenery has its own charm.
Here you will also find educational boards about the Medems Bog in Latvian. And if you are very lucky, you might spot a lizard or other creatures.
Final Part of Medems Bog Trail is a Treat for Your Eyes
And so we reach the end of the trail at a particularly picturesque spot by a bog lake. Frogs croak. Birds chirp. In May, the surrounding expanse is full of white flowers. Can anyone tell me what these beautiful blooming plants are?
For those who pride themselves on completing this trail, there is an opportunity to take a photo by two especially large mirrors with the inscription “Medems Bog.” Let’s spread the good word that Latvia has yet another beautiful bog trail.
Since the trail is not a loop, after a break at the bog lake, we head back along the same path to the starting point.
Before we part, a little warning: Choose your footwear carefully, because my sneakers looked like this after the walk.
Thoughts?
Overall, I feel like this nature trails selling point are the mirrors. They not only allows you to take some fun selfies, but also enhance the landscape. I believe that this trail is best suited for those, who wants to be closer to the nature and are not afraid of physical activities and dirtying their boots.
PS – remember about the safety – it is dangerous to go off the path in a bog!
It’s like you’re in a dream. The experience is way different than when you visit Cenas bog trail during the daylight hours. There is an aura of magic in the air. It is peaceful. It is dreamy. I have to say – sunset on the paddle board in Cenas bog together with Advaita Adventures may just be my favorite adventure of the year and definatley my favourite way to enjoy Cenas bog trail. And here is why.
PS – this post is not sponsored, I bought this for my own money and I am writing about it purely because I loved the experience so much.
The beginning of your paddle boarding adventure in Cenas bog
It’s 4AM. Oh gosh, where have I gotten myself into again?
But don’t run away now! Hear me out. The early rise is 100% worth it. As the experience will be magical.
The adventure starts in pitch black dark. Here is an illustrative picture showcasing just how dark it is.
So you have to use a flashlight or the light in your phone to see the bog boardwalk which we need to follow to get to the place where we will get into the water.
Everything around you is covered with thick fog. Above your head the stars are shining bright. After a while you can spot the silhouette of the first lookout tower. But there is still a long way ahead of you.
I am not gonna lie – to a couch potato like I, who avoids the gym like a fly avoids the bath, walking while carrying the paddle board and the equipment is not easy. I am surely huffing and puffing. But don’t worry – it is all going to be worth it. And this activity helps to wake up better than a coffee does.
Also, it is slowly starting to get lighter. But everything is still covered in that mystical fog.
We will get on the water even before the sun rises, but first – a workout for your hands as well. One has to pump air into their paddle board.
After that a safety instruction follows. But don’t worry, it’s not a boring one. The guide is engaging and fully devoted to his duty. From him you learn how to steer the board and how to keep your balance. You don’t want to fall into the murky swamp water, do you?
The feeling of complete peace you get when you climb on a paddle board in Cenas bog trail
Everything is still covered with white, dream-like fog. You can’t see the horizon. The only thing you can see are the silhouettes of the trees that softly blend into the fog. The water is completely still. It’s soothing like a lullaby.
When everyone else has conquested their paddle boards as well we start rowing. Along your way, in the dark water you can spot water lilies. You pass by small islands inhabited by lonely pine trees. Some are broken, others are standing strong.
There is no movement. It’s only us and the foggy Cenas bog. If other paddleboarders get just a bit further from you, they disappear in the fog too. So you feel like you’re completely alone. But you are not afraid. You know you are safe.
The best place to watch a sunset in Cenas bog trail is surely from a paddle board
You know it’s almost the time for the sun to show up when the sky starts to get slightly pink. We turn around to drive towards the east. It’s not long until the sun appears, shrouded in smoke. The vibe has changed.
Now is the time you can take the best pictures. If you are afraid to pull out your phone, the guide will take photos of you and email them over later. But I have to say it is almost impossible to resist the temptation to take a picture in this breathtaking place. It is just too beautiful.
At this point other paddle boarding groups start to join you in the bog as well. But we just keep rowing further. As it is time for a light breakfast. The menu is simple and vegetarian friendly – a croissant and a sweet treat. No drinks though, so bring warm tea or coffee with you from home.
When the sun has fully risen the vibe has changed again. You have woken up from your sweet, foggy dream. The world has regained colors. Everything is crisp and clear – you can spot every strand of grass and every spider web on the tree.
One may even start to question whether everything you just saw was even real. For a moment longer we sit on the calm waters of Cenas bog, and then it is time to get out of the water, pack up our paddle boards and return to the car.
But when all is said and done – sunrise paddle boarding at Cenas bog trail was truly one of a kind, unforgettable experience.
What season is the best for enjoying a sunrise in Cenas bog on a paddle board?
I enjoyed my paddleboarding adventure in Cenas bog trail at the end of August. The day was warm. Water was as warm as milk too. So one may start to wonder if this adventure is suited for cooler seasons too?
According to our guide, they do organize paddleboarding in bogs in autumn time too. And the views are arguably even better as the bogs are gorgeous in autumn time and the contrast between the warm water and cold air makes the fog even thicker. You just have to make sure you dress up very warm so as not to freeze.
Every time I tell my colleagues from abroad that Latvians love spending their weekends in a bog I get very surprised stares. In the bog? The place where Shrek lives? No. In the bog, the place that in the morning looks like the land of dreams. And now if anyone will second guess me, I will have pictures to prove it.
It appears that someone has scattered nature wonders across Latvia as if planting seeds in the field. When you are sowing – some places get a sprinkle more than others. At Skaņaiskalns nature park, the wonders of nature have gathered in abundance—caves, cliffs, and werewolf pines—all nestled alongside the picturesque banks of a river. And as if nature’s beauty wasn’t enough, someone has added a touch of artistry with wooden sculptures, making this park a perfect destination for a weekend getaway.
For those eager to add extra steps to their journey, there is a chance to continue the adventure along the Dauģēni Nature Trail, which begins right where the Skāņaiskalns trail ends.
So let’s venture towards Mazsalaca to explore both enchanting nature trails and discover which of the two suits you the best.
Costs: You have to purchase an entrance ticket at the beginning of the trail. Prices and working hours.
How long is the trail: Skāņaiskalns ~3km one way (~6km roundtrip). In addition you can also do Dauģēni trail which is extra 10 km one way.
How to get there: With a car
Our adventure begins at the ticket booth of Skāņaiskalns Nature Park. Here, we face a choice: the forest trail or the asphalt road. Let’s embrace both, taking the forest path on our way in and the asphalt road on our way back. Variety is the spice of life.
Do You Want to Become a Werewolf? Skāņaiskalns Werewolf Pine
Amidst the forest, we encounter the mystical Werewolf Pine. There are no education signs. But I know a legend. In Latvian folk tales passing naked through a pine trunk during a full moon transforms you into a werewolf.
While I doubt many would take up this challenge, the tree itself, with its knotted, pocketed trunk would be perfect for this sorcery.
These pines truly look extraordinary. So even if you have no desire to turn into a hairy creature with an intense need to howl at the moon, it is a perfect photo opportunity.
Birds and Other Wooden Sculptures in Skaņaiskalns Nature Park
When translated from Latvian to English Skaņaiskalns would translate as the ‘Mountain of good sound’ or something along those lines. So here is a pop quiz for you – who creates melodious sounds in the forest?
Birds of course. Their beautiful songs accompany you through most of the nature trail. So the wooden sculptures of birds that are scattered through Skaņaiskalns are truly a perfect fit for the place. They beautifully fill in the gaps between natural wonders along the trail, to keep you engaged.
But birds are not the only ones immortalized in sculptures. In Skaņaiskalns Nature Park, you will also find sculptures of fish, people, and even a wooden bicycle you can ride.
Skaņaiskalns Nature Park Angel’s Cave
Soon enough we reach the first cliff of the day. If you’ve heard stories about the cliff in Skaņaiskalns that eco, when shouted at – screaming at this one, is pointless; it’s not THAT cliff. We will reach that one later. However, this one has its own charm.
It’s a beautiful orange – brown cliff on the riverbank, featuring the Angel’s Cave. Why is it called the Angel’s Cave? Look at the rock formation carefully. I can see a stylized angel there. Can you see it too?
Work For Your Dreams – the Stairs of Dreams in Skaņaiskalns Nature Park
Further along, we encounter an intriguing sign – the Stairs of dreams. Sounds romantic!
But as you approach this attraction, you realize they are tall wooden stairs which look rather worrying than dreamy. The idea is simple – if you have a dream, you need to think about it and count the steps as you climb up the stairs. If you count correctly, your wish will come true.
Well, I could climb and count the steps for you… But honestly, I’m already exhausted just looking at these stairs. I know one should work for their dreams, but this climb feels more like a nightmare. So I’ll pass.
Impressive Devil’s cave of Skaņaiskalns Nature Park
Soon enough, you’ll recognise a pattern. Many names along this trail are associated with mischief. There is Devil’s Cave, Devil’s Stone, Devil’s Desk. And even a witches’ cottage, with the witch itself. This one doesn’t fly on the broom though. Looks like Latvian witches have propellers stuck to their backs.
Luckily for us, the Devil is not home today. So it means we can explore one of his residences – Skaņaiskalns Devil’s cave safely.
The exterior of the cave is quite beautiful – orange-gray rock walls covered with moss and decorated with carvings.
The inside of the cave is pitch black. One wouldn’t be able to tell if there was someone standing on the other end, or even – how long the tunnel is. So let’s bring out a flashlight!
Oh, it turns out the cave chamber is quite large. Larger than I expected based on the size of the entrance.
The Skābuma baļļa (Sour Pool) with seemingly no sourness?
What’s sour? Lemon juice is. But the Sour Pool is not. It’s actually a small cave from which a clear water spring flows.
So why call it Sour then? Turns out the sourness comes from a legend. The same Devil whose residence we visited once spilled a local drink called “Sour”. And at that place where the sour was spilled the spring started flowing.
I bet curiosity is probably tormenting you now. What is this mystical “Sour” drink?
I’ll ease your torture – according to Delfi, “Sour” is a refreshing drink made by the people of Vidzeme from coarse rye flour. Now we both know more.
View of the Neļķu Cliffs in Skaņaiskalns Nature Park
Obviously one cliff is not enough. So here are some more!
Neļķu cliffs can only be enjoyed from a distance. But they beautifully blend into the surrounding landscape and are quite photogenic.
If you are looking for the best spot to view these from, you’ll find that in Velna kancele (Devil’s desk).
All Paths Lead to the Skāņaiskalns Cliff
And finally, we have reached the main attraction of the trail – the Skaņaiskalns Cliff. This is the cliff (or one may say a mountain) of sound, as this is the one that echoes back when you shout at it. Unfortunately, there is a wedding party here to take some pictures. So I feel a bit embarrassed to scream. Perhaps you will be braver?
Vocal superpowers aside, it’s a large rock wall sitting on the opposite side of the river. An interesting detail are the many round holes in it. Could it be that there is something living in them?
Skāņaiskalns Dwarf Trail – Have We Teleported to Tērvete?
For a little side quest on your way back…
It’s no secret that in Latvia, wooden dwarfs are associated with Tērvete. It’s the place where most of Latvian children see this fairytail character in real life for the first time.
So, when I spotted the first dwarf on the SkāņaiskalnsDwarf Trail, I couldn’t resist taking a photo and posting it on social media with the question, “Guess where I am?” To see how many of my friends will guess Tervete.
The dwarfs here seem very busy – working with their little axes and saws. Building something.
It depends on your interests and on how much time you have. If you enjoy long walks amidst nature, the Dauģēni trail offers an ideal opportunity. Stretching approximately 10 km in one direction, the trail takes you through a serene forest setting. However, compared to the Skaņaiskalns Nature Park, the Dauģēni trail has way fewer attractions. Its main allure lies in its untouched natural beauty. So if you are just after touristy places and photo spots… Then the trail might seem a bit boring to you.
Also I find navigating Dauģēni trail a challenge (you’ll see why), so I wouldn’t recommend this one to people who tends to get lost easily. But we want to achieve our daily step goal, so we will explore this path as well.
!!! Important warning
It looks like there are a lot of ticks on this trail. We picked a whole 3. It might be a coincidence, but please take safety measures – get appropriate clothing and anti-tick spray. And check if no ticks are crawling on you time after time.
Take Orientation on the Daugēni Nature Trail As a Challenge
Do you like challenges?
Good. Your first test is finding the trail itself, as there are no clear indications of the direction for “Dauģēni trail” at the Skaņākalnas cliff. However, there is a small forest path that starts from the camping area, which might be the one we are looking for. There’s no harm in trying, right?
Let’s go.
After a while, our perseverance pays off – there is a stand showcasing a map of attractions, confirming that we have indeed found the entrance to the Dauģēni trail. Hooray!
It is so quiet and peaceful here (except for the bird songs). We are the only people here today. It’s us, the trees, the moss, and the blueberry bushes.
To navigate our path, we have to rely on these small signs with icons of people, occasionally appearing on the trees.
But when we get to the intersection… I warned you this will be a challenge. Can you please explain to me how to read this sign? What do those numbers mean? And why is one number indicated in several directions?
There is no network to check the map either. Therefore, we will have to rely on our logical thinking.
Considering the map we previously consulted, it appeared that the majority of attractions were nestled alongside the river. So the wisest course of action seems to stay close to the river.
So we walk. And we walk for a long time. I am starting to feel a bit anxious that we are lost. But then, we spot a well-maintained picnic area. That must mean we’re heading in the correct direction, right?
Where Is the Covs’ Cave of Dauģēni Trail?
Let’s continue.
It’s hard to gauge how far we’ve walked. But finally, we see a sign “Govs ala” (Cov’s cave). While we should be pleased with this discovery, it also implies that we have unintentionally missed the Simaņu Rock—an exquisite formation with caves and a spring—and the huge Simaņu Rock. I wouldn’t be a terrible teammate in an orienteering competition, would I?
Oh well. Let’s just look for Covs cave on the opposite side of the river. Do you see anything?
I don’t.
The moral of the story here – always read the fine print.
When you read the description of the attraction, you will find out that Cows’ Cave was once here. But it has since collapsed. This is now the site where the Cows’ Cave once was. This is one of those facepalm moments.
But don’t worry – everything will only go up from here. There will be attractions on the Dauģēni trail that we will actually see.
The Photogenic Boardwalk of the Dauģēni Trail
After Cows Cave, you have to go through an overgrown meadow. We’re not the ones who give up easily, are we? And our endurance pays off. Because after a while, you get to a beautiful footpath with reeds growing on both sides. It’s Kanieri’s little cousin!
This photogenic place motivates us to go further. And as I said – it only gets better.
The Pot of Gold at the End of the Rainbow – Dauģēni Rocks
We have finally arrived at the most famous attraction of the trail – Dauģēni rocks.
.Here you’ll find some steps, that allows you to climb down and examine the cliff’s rough texture up close. These rocks bears a striking resemblance to the rocks at Skaņaiskalns. They share the same colour and both has those small round holes in them.
There is also a beautiful view from the cliffs. On the way here, time after time, the river delighted us by breaking the routine of the forest. But the view of the river valley from the top of the rocks is undeniably the most beautiful. Isn’t it?
This is where we go back along the same path. As I later found out – this is how we missed the bridge and another big rock which we could have seen if we walked a bit further. I guess I would really do terribly in an orienteering competition
But that’s alright.
We are back at Skaņaiskalns. So let’s take the other (asphalt) road to the parking lot. So we see some more attractions – Devil’s Rock and wooden sculptures. Including the Dwarf Trail, which I already talked about a little in this article.
This was indeed an adventure. From the abundance of sights of Skaņaiskalns Nature Park to the untouched forest in the Dauģēni nature trail. And I hope you can appreciate my honesty – with all the ups and downs. But now it’s time to have dinner, spend the night, and see interesting places in Valmiera. I will tell you all about that in the next blog post.
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